Day 79: Tucson: Last Chance to See

March 24, 2014

Coming to Tucson from out of the very driest and barren parts of the Chihuahuan desert, and through a string of small and undistinguished places, it has taken some time for it to sink in that Tucson is different. One of the first clues was Beyond Bread, the chain bakery with real bread. Next, our family's homes here may or may not be typical, but they have features like tile floors, naturally cool interiors, gardens of cactus and bougainvillea, sun porches, and outdoor areas where you can comfortably eat and sit in shade or sun all day if you want, and for 90% of the days of the year.

Bougainvillea and cactus. Very different from the plants at our house, but gorgeous.

We have never been to downtown Tucson, but we understand there is an interesting historic district there. Maybe we will see it another time. Our revelation for today, though, has to do with mountains, more superb food, and cycle paths, .

Tucson is surrounded by mountains, and in fact is situated in what might be considered a giant, flat, valley. To the East are the Rincons, to the South, the Santa Ritas, to the West the Tuscons, and finally to the North, the Catalinas. The Catalinas are the tallest of the ranges, and are the most accessible from Tucson.

About food, we had the chance to attend one of the Tucson farmers' markets today. Here we found the lovely sense of community that you always see at such markets, a venue with shade and a fountain, plus a bike shop nearby, and though the season is just beginning, fresh tomatoes, strawberries, asparagus, cheese, bread ... the things so lacking out on the road and generally, in such huge swaths of the South.

About bike paths, we found that Tucson has a really extensive biking system, most notably with paved path beside the Rillito River, and of course, running right by the farmers' market. Bikeway in the form of paved shoulder extends also up into the Catalinas, and today we saw it heavily used.

The bike path by the river - makes you want to get on it and go!

So that's the overview of what we saw on this, our last chance to see anything in Tucson, and effectively the last day of this trip. Here is a little more about what it really was all about:

The Mountain

There are mountain places that we all are more or less familiar with as world class sites. Places in the Rockies, the Alps, the Himalayas, etc. And in these places there are famous spots that really a lot of people know about. But Mount Lemmon and the little town of Summerhaven? Dunno, maybe it's just the famous Grampies ignorance. Still, this is a world class thing!

We are talking about a 60 km road, up behind Tucson. This ascends from about 2000 feet of elevation to 9000 feet. As you gain altitude, you pass through varied ecozones. At first there are forests of saguaro cactus, spacing themselves out to account for available water, but otherwise looking like a forest. a little higher and the saguaro disappear, replaced by low lying scrub. But a little higher yet are forests of Ponderosa pine, Emory oak, and Quaking aspen. The temperatures become cool and the air woods scented and clear. All this is overlaid on fantastical rock formations - hoodoos, strange strata, boulders, and jagged edges.

The road up the mountain, the saguaro forest, and the valley

These cyclists are nearing the bottom. Assuming they climbed the whole road, they have descended at least 15 km

Hoodoo climbing. Eventually all the climbers gathered at the top, with coolers, and had a picnic!

Everywhere were painting like scenes of trees and rock

The Grampies have reached the top of Arizona!

This little lizard did not want to come out in full sun an smile for me

At the very top, there is still a little snow, and a ski area - not in operation this late in the season. There is also the village of Summerhaven - not low lying adobe but chalet style pine construction. The village was devastated by a forest fire a few years ago, so many of the chalets are newly constructed.

Arizona chalets near Tucson - no adobe here!

Lots more for Grampies to learn about in this state

All the way up the mountain, cyclists are challenging the grade. Most are lycra clad warriors with light bikes. Some have ultra super time trial bikes, with handlebars that look like wings and forks knife thin.

But in the village we ran into one different from the rest. We spotted his bike first. Almost a touring bike, it was laden with packs.But this was not a cycle tourer but a "bike packer". The packs don't hang off the sides, but cling to the centre line of the bike. The wheels are 29 inch, the forks have suspension, and this one had a Rohloff hub, Son 28 dynamo, and EWerk battery system.

The bike's owner, Larry Bennett, came along and the usual cyclist to cyclist chat fest ensued. Larry is training to Ride the Divide next year, and he had ridden up this mountain on a rough back road! There is a bivy sack and sleeping bag in his kit. His bike and bags are custom made. He is a serious, crazy guy. We loved meeting him! Check out Larry's blog at bikepackingquest.blogspot.com

While up among the trees we could eat a picnic in just right cool conditions in the forest. The things we brought from the farmers' market were amazing, because almost each thing was of the highest quality you can get anywhere for that thing. That is, the bread, the sheep cheese, the plum tomatoes, the cheese danish, the muffins, even the darn water - were all the best. Wow. Even the strawberries, not mentioned in the above list because they were from California, were pretty darn good.

Top quality picnic ingredients: bread, strawberries, sheep cheese, snap peas, etc.

Let's go back down to that farmers' market for a short photo look. Then, unfortunately, it will be time to quit. That is, of course, until the Grampies Go By the Books!

Cousin Ronni and Dodie snap up the fresh, purple, asparagus at the farmers' market

At the market, a demonstration solar oven, cooking beans at over 300 degrees

Beans, particularly the Anasazi, are famous in this part of the world

At lest one stall had super quality bread and pastries. Even Aunt Sophie approved of their cheese danish

The fountain is only part of the pleasant surroundings where this market is held

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	0
Comment on this entry	Comment	0