Day 31:Dauphin Island to Shepard State Park , Gauthier, Mississippi: In a fog

February 4, 2014

We have been following Dan Patenaudes tour through this area from last year. On Dauphin Island we even stayed in the same motel. We noted that Dan found the Chevron on the island, that unlike any other has a grill in the handimart portion. The ladies there said they could make anything, and it was so. They made us toasted breakfast sandwiches with four strips of bacon, egg, and cheese. Great!

We cycled through the remainder of the island, on the way to the big bridge. It's a pleasant place, with quiet streets and cycle paths on the side. Everything was shrouded in a heavy fog, a mixed blessing. On the one hand there was nothing of interest visible and on the other hand, the possibly scarey big bridge was also invisible. We have learned that the fog had no benefits for Katie and Michael Farynaz, who had crossed the bridge yesterday and tried to take the ferry off Dauphin Island. They have written that they were completely fogged out.

We did get some glimpses of the white sands islands and spits near the bridge, as we completed its almost 8 km length. This certainly is a beautiful area.

Once on the other side, there was the Bay on one side and salt grass marsh on the other. At Alabama Port we turned west on SR188 and followed it to the post office at Coden. On the bridge and on 188 we stopped repeatedly to pick up Mardi Gras stuff. we got zillions of necklaces, a Superman hat, and a frisbee. As you can (or will soon) see in the photo, we also got a way to demonstrate what my hair could look like if we did a one year tour! One other thing, from the bridge, is what we take to be a genuine piece from an Alabama highway patrollman's outfit. We have no idea where the rest of the patrollman is.

We festooned the bikes with necklaces, so now we are ready for any other Mardi Gras festivities we run in to.

The fog was weird. On 188 you could not exactly see fog, nor was it raining. But drops of water fell from our helmet brims and water accumulated on our rain coats, which we wore though there was no rain. This carried on for most of the day.

At Coden we stopped at the post office to mail cards to the kids. The postmaster there, Ronnie Adams said he wanted to show some southern hospitality, and gave us each a carton of chocolate milk. We squirrelled these away, and really enjoyed them with supper at the campsite. Ronnie came out on the steps of the post office to wish us off. He predicted that we would really enjoy New Orleans, and we are sure he will be right. What a nice man!

Bayou La Batre is the first place with a really Louisiana sounding name. We learned that Bayou is actually a transformation of a Choctaw word, meaning river. There is indeed a bayou there, and it is filled with shrimp boats.

We went into a McDonalds there too. McDonalds is described by Dan Patenaude as a culinary and urinary emergency room. Very apt. But the fries, especially, are yucchy. The $2 bacon Mcdouble is, however, marginally eatable.

After Bayou la Batre, some bright light in the department of transport put a rumble strip into the shoulder, forcing us onto the road. We had hopes for better when we crossed into Mississippi, but they had some other devious tortures in mind. One was a rumble strip of fine lines, that you could almost ride on. The other was a rough shoulder to slow you down, coupled with cracks filled with dirt and grass, every four to six feet, to rattle your fillings and/or send you swerving around them. Other shoulder treatments included just enough room between the white line and the rumble strip to maybe ride, and other perverse variations that we can not remember, except for remembering the irritation with them!

Having seen the unique houses and giant condos of the Gulf Shores bit of Alabama, we were ready for something zippy from the Mississippi Gulf area. Maybe it will still come, but US90 east of Pascagoula was nothing but a de facto interstate. Closer in, it was clogged with every big box retailer and fast food outfit known (except that Costco is not around and Lowes is more seen than Home Depot). There was not one single, not one, thing that of interest that was local.

US 90 swings just north of downtown, and we missed seeing what might be there. Based on the surroundings, there is little chance we missed anything. Maybe someone who knows could use the guestbook and give Pascagoula a boost. right now it is in our dustbin, joining Tallahassee.

There is no signage for the Shepard State Park, anywhere but at the secluded entrance. By the time we got there the ticket booth was unmanned, so we just pitched the tent near the bath house. This has light and power and is heated! Except for the lack of Gilligan's Island on the TV, it might as well be a motel! We cooked supper on the bath house porch, and we are drying laundry inside, while the camera and flashers charge. Great!

Chevron seating, with bike view. did we mention we liked this place!

Just before the big bridge, some antidotes to giant condos - sub-miniature ones!

This necklacer, found here in the bridge, will be sent to Violet, in Seattle.

What Steve could look like after another year of this.

Marfdi Gras cups from one of many "Krewes"

Wilson came up from behind us. He is cycling Sarasota to Austin. We stopped for a lovely chat, before he zipped on ahead.

While we were talking to Wilson, this lightly loaded fellow blew by on the other side.

Our gift chocolate milk was much enjoyed

Ronnie, the ery hospitable Coden postmaster

We managed to avoid this one, but since we see that donuts (and pizza) are the local population's only source of fresh bakery, we are continuing to go into these shops.

The story of blessing the fleet. One of the boats in the photo is actyually floating in front of us.

Houses here are so plain. None has flowers or much landscaping. Thuis is a huge difference with Europe.

Nice house in Gautier, on the way to the State Park

The only signage for the state park. If you don't already know about these facilities you will never find out.

Today's ride: 83 km (52 miles)
Total: 1,804 km (1,120 miles)

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