August 20, 2016
Paray Le Monial: Wet, Wet, Wet
We woke up to grey skies and as we lingered over breakfast the rain began to fall. We could put off our departure no longer - we had to get to Paray Le Monial and the Stoppards needed to get on their way to St Ledger. On with coats we loaded up, said our goodbyes and were on our way. Today as far as the terrain was concerned was very easy cycling all beside the canal sometimes on dedicated cycle routes and sometimes on quiet roads. Firstly we had to go up 8 locks as the Canal de Centre reached its highest point. You wouldn't think that this would be a problem at all but when the locks get close together so of course do the steep climbs. We reached the top and the rain was getting heavier and we were soaked through. Things on the canal were very quite, amazingly in all 65km we travelled we didn't see a single boat moving and until we got almost here not another bike. The fishermen were there but they looked very bedraggled, I can't see what pleasure they could be getting
The Canal de Centre is roughly along the Line of Demarcation of WW 2 and there is an interesting little museum along the way. We would have spent more time looking at it if we hadn't been as cold. The attendant told us there was a PMU across the road so over we went hoping a coffee would warm us up. But no it was colder inside than out and Ken was beginning to shiver uncontrollably - it serves him right for being so skinny. The only thing was to set off as fast as we could, we had decided that if we came to a restaurant of any sort we would call in seeking warmth and food. As if it was a miracle a building appeared, it didn't look very open but it had two dogs outside so we decided to try it. Inside was almost warm but even better there was a wonderful man. Did we want a grande cafe. No we wanted food. Just a minute he said. Then it started to come. First a large plate of frogs legs - their bones make them a hazard to eat, then a massive steak, a huge piece of pork fillet and piles of chips with red wine to wash everything down, now for an apple tart and a big bunch of grapes but we were not finished all meals must end with coffee. The dogs sat in rapt attention watching for any failure on our part. We were the only clients and the Patron a delight, he was a book collector and the walls were lined with the most amazing collection of every possible genre of book. And the price 10E each for the whole meal.
Warm inside and out the last 15km seemed to fly by and we were soon in the hotel and showered. We have explored the town, visited the big basilica and sat in the Main Street drinking beer, the sun is shining. Tonight we had planned to eat in the place R and J had recommended but we are still too full so will settle for a snack in our room,
Today's ride: 65 km (40 miles)
Total: 835 km (519 miles)
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