September 28, 2016
Brugge: We do it by numbers
Ypres is really a most remarkable town, it is almost unbelievable to think that it was almost completely flattened in WW1and today after its rebuild it stands in all its previous glory. Since 1929 (apart I imagine during the depths of WW2) each evening at 8pm at the Mennin Gate - the gate through which the troups marched to go to the trenches- there is a simple ceremony of the Last Post, the reading of Binyans lines and the Reveille. It is a moving ceremony and is attended each evening by hundreds of people. Last evening there were lots of school groups including one from Bathurst in NSW on a history trip.
At 8 o'clock in the morning when we left town the town was crowded with children on their way to school. Some were walking, some were being bused in and hundreds were cycling. Cycling is certainly the way to get around Ypres and everyone bumps along the cobbles on their upright Dutch style bikes. We had invested in a Fietsnetwerk map of the area which sure makes navigation easy. The routes are numbered, you chose the one in the correct direction and follow it, when you get to the end of it you choose the next number you need. The only problem is that the maps are quite expensive and only last for about a day's riding. As we got out of Ypres there were naturally many reminders of WW1. Ken stopped to read every one and was particularly interested in Carefore de Roses which was where for the first time in warfare the Germans used poison gas killing many Morocans and French. For around 20km we were riding on a rail trail which gave us a wonderful view of the crops. There were Brussel sprouts, cauliflowers, red and green cabbages, leeks, potatoes and strawberries as well as the more common maize and sugar beet. There were some fields where the harvest was over and they had been tilled and re sown. At the end of this we came to the town of Kortemark. It looked a reasonable size so we would have a cup of coffee. We had forgotten that in Belgium none of the cafes seem to open till about 11am so it was a fruitless search.
The rail trail had finished so now we were heavily relying on the numbers which with great skill led us along small roads and cycle lanes beside bigger roads to the fairly big town of Torhout. Torhout was having the biggest market I have ever seen, the seemed to be selling everything and people must have turned out from miles around. We pushed our bikes through and spotted a cafe, one problem it was packed and we didn't have a chance of a seat so on through the market we went. Eventually I saw a cafe with a spare table and we were able to enjoy our coffee with a chocolate and a small pastry that seemed to be part of the deal. I must say we are finding the language very difficult as although in the tourist places like Ypres and Brugges English is spoken widely in this part of the country outside those places it seems to be solely Flemish. Makes me realise how comfortable it was in France.
Brugges when we got to it seems a lovely old town clearly unaffected by the war and our hotel by the canal is charming. However I am yet to explore it - Ken is out hunting maps for our onward journey.
Today's ride: 61 km (38 miles)
Total: 2,830 km (1,757 miles)
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