To Moralejas, Spain

June 25, 2023

Jacinto went around the other side of the mountain for extra climbing. Our routes came together at mile 12. At mile 50 is where we got on the rough road that we don't recommend. I can also see when I zoom in where my phone was having trouble working, as the red route line is straight, and not actual riding.

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Today is another example of the morning seeming so far away, although it was just hours. I set the alarm for 6 AM - much to Jacinto's dismay. I knew I had to get on the road early. I was awake before the alarm, and hoping to start even earlier. Sunrise was at 7 AM, and was a bit delayed here in the mountains.

I had been assured that the front desk was manned 24 hours a day and there would be no problem getting the bikes out of the basement. I also wanted ice from the restaurant. Ice would be crucial to my survival on this hot, climbing day.

I went downstairs. There was no-one. Shit! I really needed ice. I wandered around the kitchen (feeling quite guilty). It was dark and I couldn't see anything that looked like what I thought an ice machine should. I came back to the lobby. Through the doors I could see four cats lined up on the front door mat, waiting for the door to open. Happily, now there was a woman at the front desk. It didn't appear that she knew I had been snooping around the kitchen. I showed her my small bucket and said I would like something bigger, or four of these, for four bottles. She was very surprised , and said I would have to make four trips. Hell. I was trying to be in a hurry. I asked her about the cats. She said that they were strays who lived in the abandoned house next door. The hotel had a huge veranda for guests to sit on, and they would feed the cats, so the cats hung out there.

I retrieved my bike from the basement, parked it out front, and went upstairs. I'm getting very good at consolidating my trips. I can get everything downstairs in one go. Yesterday I had oiled my chain, and it seemed that the bike rode so much smoother. Today I made sure to wipe it off. That's a good start to my morning.

I had only the one little bucket of ice she gave me. I filled my stainless water bottle clear full and put the extra few cubes in my electrolyte bottle. That was a regular water bottle and it's the one I drink first. I also took two disposable bottles of water from the fridge (we had a fridge!) to add to the one I've been carrying for days. That gave me five bottles of water. Was it enough? I had asked Jacinto for some Euros, just in case I needed to make a small purchase along the way.

I ended up out the door at 7:30. I was hoping to be earlier, but there I was. The sun still wasn't up and I could see no one around town. In Spain, sunrise is far too early for people to be out. Jacinto was barely awake when I left. I wonder if he went back to sleep?

I enjoy riding early in the morning. The air was already warm here. There was no early morning crispness today!

Out of our two route choices today, one was level and then started downhill. The other route climbed 500 feet, and then started down. They were only a half mile different in length. I'm sure you know who took which route! I went one direction around the mountain, Jacinto went the other.

After having my brakes checked in Ciudad Rodrigo, both the front and rear brakes squeak. Terribly. I'm happy to report that I had no trouble with the brake pad moving today, and that the grade of the descent was actually quite gentle, considering the profile. There was no traffic at all for 12 miles. None. Except (there's always an exception) for the little red car that was driving up the center of the road, just as I was riding down the center! We quickly pulled to our respective edges and all was well.

I rode through several small towns, all residents were still asleep. I was happy to do a good job navigating. I debated eating some of the food I had with me. I knew I would be working plenty later in the ride. I had 12 miles of beautiful views. There were many hiking trails crossing the road. I didn't see any camino signs, just hiking trails.

Throughout the day I ate two apples, a banana, and a hard boiled egg. I ate 3-4 Perpetum tablets, and took Hammer brand Anti Fatigue capsules. Jacinto tells me I just need to eat food - but I think my body is busy working, and it needs easily available energy. I only drank three bottles of water, which seemed not enough, but it was what I wanted.

As I descended, I could feel the air warm up. I checked my bicycle computer a couple of times to see how much climbing I had done. I was happy with my progress, and tried not to focus on the numbers, but to survive the day. Between the heat and the climbing, it was a challenging day for me. I'm very happy to report that I got to town in excellent shape. Towards the end of the day, I was getting quite hot, but the road thankfully flattened out, and I was able to keep enough speed to keep cool.

I did have a problem in that my phone was also getting hot, and the RWGPS function wasn't working well. I missed several cues. The app would turn off, but thankfully turn back on. Our routes came back together at the base of the mountain at mile 12 for me, and mile 13 for Jacinto. We had routed ourselves onto a back road into town. RWGPS stayed on the main road, but Jacinto's computer went the back way. I changed my route to match his after mile 12. It was a really rough road. So rough that my back was tingling from vibrating against the seat of my recumbent!

I had trouble getting into town because of my phone. For a moment I couldn't even remember the name of the hotel - that was on the phone. Then I did remember. Whew. I got to the main street. Do I go left or right? I do not know. I tried to get my phone to turn on, I was standing in the shade. That should make the phone happy. Then a man walked passed. I asked him for the Hotel Delphos. He looked at me and paused. I thought it was my accent. He said, "It's right here - you are standing next to it". What are the chances? I'm there.

I went inside to register. The cafe was very busy. I was handed off to three people before the third one, a man, helped me. He was most kind. He said to put my bike in the room via the elevator. I didn't think my bike would fit. I took him outside to look at it. He then offered to help me carry it up two flights of stairs. We talked about putting it in the auxiliary dining area. At that moment it was full of people, with small kids running around. I could only imagine . . . . then he suggested the parking garage, but couldn't find the correct key on his large key ring. I suggested that I eat first and have something to drink. I had a good day, but still felt addled from the heat.

I ordered a menu' del dia with an ensalada mixta. We've ordered these several times now. Today's version had iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, and tuna. Tuna seems to be a key feature.

In the end, the party left, and my bike went in that dining area. The man walked me upstairs to check out the room. It was good, with another refrigerator! He showed me how the AC worked. I hope that sufficient for Jacinto.

I checked on Jacinto on Strava. He was WAY back there. I had plenty of time for the getting to town routine. I even took a nap. Then I checked on Jacinto again. He didn't seem to be progressing well. I called. No, he hadn't had a flat, it was just a long day with lots of climbing.

Finally he arrived. I thought he would be starved. It was 6 PM and 102 degrees. Jacinto had eaten three prepackaged joyas and had coffee in the morning. He ate one yogurt I left behind. That is all he had eaten all day, although he did stop twice at gas stations to buy ice and water. He has a big Camelbak, but drinks water like a camel also! Now we have his bike in the room. It fit in the elevator. He's still not hungry, but the dining opens at 8:30 again and I"m going to get him to eat. In the morning they are supposed to have food at 7 AM. That is the plan. Tomorrow is a more normal day in mileage/elevation gain.

Something that deserves special mention is the town of Santibanez de Alto. It's a town way up the side of the mountain, just hanging there! It was getting towards the end of my day, and I could see it attractively perched up the mountain, with white buildings, and red roofs. I said quite a few bad words, thinking that I was supposed to ride WAY up there. No way, it was too hot, and I was too done. It would be a great destination for someone who likes to climb. I need to route it out and see just what it looks like.

I need to go back and tell the beginning of Jacinto's story. Last night after we put the bikes in the basement, Jacinto got to the room with his helmet and one glove inside of it. We presumed that the other glove was in the basement with his bike. This morning, he looked and looked for the glove, but never found it. That killed some time. Then he rode through town, and took some photos. Then he started down the mountain. A couple of miles later, Jacinto figured out that he was going down the wrong side of the mountain. I told him at that point, I probably would have kept going. No, not Jacinto. He rode back up. An hour later, he was back where he started. No wonder he got to town four hours after I did. There's been many times he would start hours later, but still catch up to me. His knee handled the day just fine. It seems he's worked through his issues.

It's time to force Jacinto to go eat. Our room isn't cooling off much. Maybe AC in Spain isn't to American standards. They don't do ice, the AC is weak. Perhaps they just deal with heat better? It is certainly hot!

Today went well. The roads were good as far as traffic. The back road into town was rougher than either of us would like. I wouldn't recommend that one. I saw storks only in one town. Scott Anderson mentioned that there were many storks in the Zamora area. I guess we've gotten out of their range. I'm also not seeing many big churches, and no water towers.

Tomorrow we cross into Portugal. We ride over the Roman bridge at Alacantara! Jim Fitch - this one is for you!