To Alosno, Spain - Climbs, Castles, And Cobblestones in Spain And Portugal 2023 - CycleBlaze

July 4, 2023

To Alosno, Spain

I'd like to note that Strava regularly gives Jacinto far mile elevation gain than RWGPS gives me. One day he had 1,000 feet more! Today, he had 3,420 gain. I've been having a problem with my phone not recording RWGPS when it gets hot. That happened towards the end of the day today, you can see the straight line. I was happy it came back on when I had to navigate town. But, I don't think on those days that I'm getting correct data for the straight line.
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I didn't sleep well last night, for thinking about getting up early and all of the climbing we had today. I gave up and got up early. This is the first time this trip that I've tried to get ready while Jacinto is sleeping. It's more fun to have interaction in the morning, even if we don't ride directly together all day.

I went down early to get the key to the bathroom where are bikes were locked. The key was there, and I got my bike out. I could see a fancy carbon fiber bike inside. It had a small frame bag, and a top tube bag, that was it. One more trip upstairs and I was ready to go. Jacinto had warned me I would need the granny gear to start. He was correct. I got to the top of the rise, and coasted down to the bridge. Town was very quiet, before 7 AM. There was a little nip in the air, for the first time this trip. I enjoyed that. From the bridge I had 2.75 miles climbing up to the intersection. I was VERY happy that it wasn't all granny gear climbing. I had told Jacinto that I expected to take a full hour to reach the top, but only took 30 minutes. Hurray for me. There had been some traffic on the climb, but once I took the turn, traffic disappeared.

We had more empty plains with occasional trees. I was enjoying the morning, kind of day dreaming as I pedaled, when a bicycle rider passed me. It was our neighbor. I had no idea what he looked like, but I recognized the bike! Once I recognized the bike, I added an extra Hola with added enthusiasm in my voice. That made him turn around and smile. Off he went. No surprises there.

At mile 12 was the border and a dam. The road swooped down to the bridge and there was the bicycle rider again! We talked for a few minutes. Later, Jacinto had a friend request from him on Strava. Roberto had taken a photo of me and posted it there. Strava must have a feature that allows you to look for other riders on your same route? I can't imagine how he would have found Jacinto otherwise. Roberto rode a 67 mile day. He was riding an overnight trip. 

Thinking about the encounter with him kept me happy all the way up the next climb. I've been eating dried apricots now that my figs have run out. They are satisfactory for energy, and are less messy to handle. I was drinking warm water. At the Hotel Museo, the water out of the cold water tap was warm enough to shower with. I had filled my bottles last night, and the water was still more than luke warm. I was hoping for a gas station soon. I had tried riding in Tucson all spring without ice, to train myself for Spain. We had been warned that Europeans don't do ice like Americans. Darned if I don't like ice, and I'm willing to buy it at every chance I get! My chance today was the gas station at Mile 20. I bought a cold drink, and a bag of ice. This time I could communicate with the clerk, leaving the remaining ice for Jacinto.

Jacinto went to the breakfast buffet, which he said was excellent for the 7.50E. It certainly sounded tastier than my hard boiled eggs and yogurt, but I think the boost I got from riding in the early morning is worth it to me. He left the hotel at 9:30.

The road to the border in Portugal was better condition that the one we rode in on yesterday. We haven't ridden anything so far that is unacceptable. Once I crossed the border to Spain, road conditions improved, and traffic lessened. Where could the traffic go? Not into thin air. In a way, I didn't like it. I do like some cars going past, just in case of a problem. The truth is, with my long bike, if I had a problem here, it would be a problem. In Portugal there were pick up trucks, at least occasionally. Here, the best I could hope for is a commercial van, and I'm sure they have work stuff or products inside. It is best that I have no problems. 

I navigated El Granado without getting lost, went to the gas station, and continued on down the road. I had changed my route to match Jacinto's. He went right through Villanueva de los Castillejos. My route went around town. Now that I was riding alone, I sure would have gone around, but that's not what RWGPS was telling me to do. Through town I went. Then it quit giving me voice cues! I think that happened because I changed the route last night, and the internet was spotty. I had trouble getting RWGPS to start this morning until I went down to the office. So - I was in town, going uphill, with occasional cars (all polite). A woman walking with her father (?) told him as I passed by that he needed a bicycle just like that one. I had to smile.

I sure wish I was going around on the big road now! I ended up doing just fine, holding my phone with one hand. All was good until I got to a last honking climb. It was really, really steep. I would have stopped and walked, except at that point I was going so slowly that I was afraid I'd fall over because I couldn't get my foot down fast enough. Of course there was a man at the top, waiting to see if I could make it. He congratulated me when I did. 

I was happy to get back to the big road. I sure wish RWGPS was talking. I had three miles before I turned off on the side road to Alosno. Suddenly, RWGPS was talking. What a relief. This side road was the no lines at all variety with fresh pavement. Welcome back to Spain! I was too busy being happy about that. The new pavement ended. That's ok, I can do old pavement. Then, suddenly, there was a short section of dirt with lots of pot holes. What the heck? I thought Spain was welcoming me back? Portugal might not have had as good of pavement, but at least it wasn't dirt with potholes. I had about five miles of alternating pavement and dirt. The road was very, very quiet. I had two semi trailers pass me, which seemed odd. I wonder if they also didn't know what they were getting.

This last nine miles was reasonably flat, I had ice in my bottles and was ticking down the miles in a  satisfactory fashion. Look at me go!

I rolled into town, hoping not to get lost. I also watched for open food places. I saw one cafe, but it had all men outside. Not the friendly old guys, but men a couple of decades younger, who for some reason didn't look friendly.

I kept going and made it all the way to the Convento Esther without getting lost once! I had an outstanding  day today. I did better than I expected for the amount of climbing, and did a good job on navigation. I sure wish Jacinto would leave early and ride with me, but he won't. I gave him the talk again right now about how much better I perform when I'm not overheated, especially when there is a lot of climbing. He's willing to ride together, and wait for me along the way, as long as I will leave at his time. So.

I got in to the convent. Our bikes were tucked next to the staircase, and we were up a flight of stairs and at the far end of the hallway. We have a nice sized room with good AC, the wi-fi is good. We have a cute little terrace that is in the direct sun right now. There's a swimming pool, beautiful grounds, a kitchen we can use. This is a great place to stay and a good riding day. 

I checked on Jacinto. He had just picked up the ice and had 20 miles to go. I showered and laid around doing nothing. It is nice to get to town alone, then we aren't trying to do the same thing at the same time. Extra plus for me, that I got all of the directions on using the kitchen, where was the grocery etc, by myself, in Spanish, and I felt like I understood everything.

When Jacinto got in, he was starving. The bar on the corner was supposed to be open. You know the story. Closed. Google gave us a restaurant on down the street that was supposed to be open until 4. Closed. The grocery we already knew was closed until 5:30. We went back to the room. Jacinto ate that can of sardines that he's been carrying around. I made him put the smelly, empty can out on the terrace. He thought that was unnecessary.

I took a nap. Because I could! Then we went to the store and bought food for dinner. We had a chicken stir fry with both watermelon and ice cream as dessert. The fruits here are delicious. We had to ask a man staying here how to turn the stove on. He said it won't turn on if you have a pan on the burner. Now we know. We hard boiled some eggs for the morning. The man and his co-worked fixed some sort of hot drinks. Milk with powder in it. It was 98 degrees when we walked to the grocery. I wasn't interested in a hot drink, even if it smelled good. Then men took their drinks outside and then got in the pool. Who doesn't like hot chocolate and swimming?

Something we've noticed this entire trip is that there are no dish towels in kitchens. Or paper towels. Or napkins. Here, there's a roll of toilet paper on the counter. When the man came to help us get the stove top going, he wiped his hands with toilet paper. I would think that it was a one off, except we haven't seen towels anywhere. We've been gathering up napkins at restaurants along the way, but neither of us were inspired enough to go back up the stairs for a napkin. 

It appears I'm riding early, and alone. Tomorrow has even more climbing. We have a house rented. I'm supposed to be contacting the owner as I get closer to town, so he can come and unlock the house. We had to pay for two nights to get one night, but it was one of those cases of that's all we could find.

A story - when we were at the store, we were at the check out, and Jacinto went back for an item. We had brought our own bags with us, but I needed another bag. They are .10 each. I asked the clerk for another bag, but she said she was going to wait and ask the Señor. When the Señor got back, he asked me if we needed a bag. Yes. This must be a man's world - I can't even decide if we need a ten cent bag!

Jacinto couldn’t find a pair of short fingered gloves, so he made his own with some scissors we carry. They come in handy!
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Everything looks like a castle now.
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Every mornings have good shadows.
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Robert was at our hotel last night. He was on an overnight tour and rode 67 miles today.
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Is this a wildlife crossing?
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The Rute Verde looks a little rough for my tastes.
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Is the other photo was a castle, this must be a Roman bridge.
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Do I see a nest on the top left of this steeple?
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Jacinto arrives at the Convento Ester. Great price, great room.
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These trees had very stringy bark. They are not in our area of the USA.
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We had a big drop down to the border and dam. Then a big climb up the other side.
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I’m still not seeing storks.
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Scott AndersonYou can’t fool me. This is the same spot as above.
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1 year ago
Kelly IniguezTo Scott AndersonHa - you are so correct! But I do think there’s a nest on the left corner. When we walked to the grocery last night, we saw storks on a tower, but we didn’t have a phone with us.

You were correct, around Zamora they were everywhere.
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1 year ago
Scott AndersonTo Kelly IniguezAnd you’re correct too. It’s definitely a nest, in both photos.
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1 year ago
Street view in Villanuevo de las Castillos.
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A statue in the same town.
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This is the first gold painted church I’ve seen.
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Wind turbines surrounded us today.
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The tile on a house in Alosno.
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Today's ride: 39 miles (63 km)
Total: 721 miles (1,160 km)

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