Day 61 - L’Escala to Girona - Gorging in France ...Then Basquing in the Pyrenees - 2023 - CycleBlaze

June 17, 2023

Day 61 - L’Escala to Girona

Another Trip Around The Sun - In The Sun

Another short day to Girona before a break in the action … again. As I mentioned in the last post, we’re in wind down mode for this tour. Girona’s become a Mecca of sorts for roadies and we’ve had numerous friends give us recommendations on things to do and places to ride there that we decided to book ourselves into a nice centrally located apartment for three nights.

Turns out Girona has some pretty great restaurants too so we’re booked into three places that promise to continue the gorging aspect of this tour.

Our first decision today though was whether to continue with the original plan and ride Els Angels, a classic ride up to the Santuari dels Angels and then down into Girona (and a shout out to the Maher-Weary’s as we first heard of this ride from their 2022 trip through here), or a more pedestrian (read no climb) route into Girona. The only reason we were having this debate was the weather. 

Yesterday was hot, and we were on the flats. Today the forecast was for 34° C at mid day, about the time we would be finishing the 400 m climb to the sanctuary. 

We’ve ridden longer through hotter weather before, so we decided to go for the climb, and it worked out well. It was hot, but we managed to have a great stop in la Pera for a rest in the shade and a fill of cold water and pineapple juice (the very nice bar staff even filled our water bottles with ice and fresh water) just before the climb started.

There were a lot of roadies (as expected) and two cars and after grinding away we were soon at the sanctuary. As is the norm for us, we were the only ‘loaded’ bikers but we struck up a number of conversations with local roadies who all were genuinely respectful of our climb (some were also genuinely concerned about our sanity … but different strokes for different folks!).

A super fun run downhill brought us into Girona and it became clear that road cycle tourism and the associated infrastructure is big here. We only wished that the infrastructure thing extended to our apartment though as the only place we could store our bikes was in the apartment. 

It’s right in the centre of town and very well appointed. It’s also on the second floor of the (very old) building with a narrow staircase. How narrow? Well my MTB with 760mm handlebars would definitely not fit. Our Tout’s with 590 mm wide handlebars ‘just’ fit and the 180° turn at the top of the stairs required the bikes to be held vertically and rotated on the vertical axis.

Everyone’s had this experience at some point and I guess we have to count ourselves lucky that this is the first time on this tour we had to do this. Needless to say, the Tout’s are staying in place until we bug out of town on Tuesday morning.

Anyway, another wonderful day of biking and Girona is a pretty lively and interesting town to finish the day in.

Tonight we started our first night of ‘gorging’ at Nexe ….  A farm to table place (think high end farm) that’s a short stroll from the apartment.

Once again, we had their set menu, this time 9 courses, and each and every one of them was very memorable! Aunt Betty has the full ‘Instagramable’ instalment if you keep scrolling further down.

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SOTD - Birthday, The Beatles.

Well, because it’s my birthday! Same song as this day in 2015 on our X-Canada trip. That one was Canmore to Calgary - 9°C and pissing rain. Today was 34°C and full on sun!

Leaving L’Escala. Full sun and warming up quickly!
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Today’s forecast .. try to get this one done quickly!
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The first 20 km’s were through flattish farmland as we headed west into the hills
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That’s the sanctuary on the hill, the Classic Els Angles ride. Once there it’s downhill into Girona
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Really beautiful and peaceful riding, more bikes than cars
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Lovely little village of la Pera just before the real climb starts
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In the shade with cold drinks for a needed reset before the climb!
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Lovely shaded spot in the town square for a break.
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In la Pera
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No pics while we were climbing except for this one - K topping out at the turn off to the sanctuary!
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A nice roadie couple from Sant Feliu took this pic of us at the Sanctuary. They were about the same age as us and had a son who lived in Vancouver. It’s a small world
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The number of biker pictures at this spot is probably unfathomable, but here’s ours anyway.
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Great 10 km(ish) run down into Girona on perfect new pavement
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Whoohoo!
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The narrowest section is 60 cm wide. Our handlebars are 59 cm.
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Scott AndersonWow. Bad luck!
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1 year ago
Kirsten KaarsooTo Scott AndersonWe made it work and the apartment is great. We are just not taking them in and out during our stay.
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1 year ago
A little shifting of the bed and the Tout’s were tucked away for a few days of rest.
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Karin KaarsooNo climbing out of bed on that side...
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1 year ago
Kirsten KaarsooTo Karin KaarsooNo but they were out of the way!
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1 year ago
Very stylish and functional ‘Old Side’ apartment right in the heart of the old town.
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View from our balcony. It’ siesta time now. By 7 pm this street was packed. Fortunately there are no bars on this section so it was very quiet at night.
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A quick spin around the neighbourhood and we came across this wedding party emerging from the Girona cathedral. They probably had a couple of hundred tourists like us looking on in addition to the invited guests, but everyone was happy and having a good time.
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Tonight’s dinner … English menu, and very understated. Every dish was memorable and had unique flavours and textures. Pics to follow (sorry if you’re not a foody)
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The amuse, not on the menu, mussels with an orange curry - exceptional, and it’s Spain …. To a take on anchovies, again sensational
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The Oysters …. Quite large but sweet and firm like Kushi’s (my fave). The ponzu subtly complemented them, the main taste was Oyster, as it should be.
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We’ve really got a crush on Godello’s since we’ve got to Spain. So perfect with seafood
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Our table had a great view of the oyster / sashimi station
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The tuna sashimi with wasabi, pickled cucumber and sesame. Again the tuna was the star with the other elements perfectly complimenting it
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This was a real standout … tomato gazpacho covering flaked cod covered with pickled watermelon and onion
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We are close to France, so you can’t escape Foie! Small piece and well balanced with a pistachio cream and diced macerated apricot
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Beans, ham (Iberian no less) and shrimp …… soooo much better than it sounds. Each element was a perfect example of it’s kind and they were worked together expertly.
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A Spanish take on risotto, squid ink rice (each kernel distinct with a little bite to it) and diced tender cuttle fish. Very umami flavours.
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Shredded lamb shoulder wrapped in a very thin phyllo casing. The server called it ‘lamb baklava’. It was superb.
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A palate cleansing melon sorbet with shiso
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And we finished with a chocolate cherry combo that channelled the best Black Forest cake you’ve ever dreamt of.
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That’s all from Girona … the sign in the back says it all!
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Today's ride: 49 km (30 miles)
Total: 2,605 km (1,618 miles)

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Susan CarpenterHappy Birthday Lyle! Glad you got to celebrate with a classic ride and special meal.
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1 year ago
Lyle McLeodThanks Susan, it was a great day … but we’ve had so many great days on this trip it becomes hard to differentiate between them. Something like a birthday can make the difference.
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1 year ago
Rachael AndersonI’m glad you stopped in Girona. We really loved it there!
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1 year ago
Kirsten KaarsooTo Rachael AndersonWe enjoyed it and it was fun to switch to lighter bikes for an easy ‘road ride’
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1 year ago