Lax Law Enforcement Continues

May 14, 2015

Winona, Minnesota

While taking my tent down, I noticed a green pick-up truck marked "RANGER" pulling into the campground. I hadn't paid for my campsite yet, so I thought it best not to wait for the ranger to approach me; I went over and approached her.

"Hi," I said, "I camped here last night, but there weren't any envelopes at the self-pay station. Can you take my camping fee?"

"No," she answered, "but all you have to do is go to the park office and they'll take care of it for you."

"I thought of that, but I saw the park office is a mile-and-a-half out of my way. I'm on a bicycle and I was hoping to avoid a three-mile round trip."

"Yeah, that's true," she sympathized, "How long were you here?"

"Since last evening."

"Are you leaving soon?"

"Yes, in just a few minutes."

"I shouldn't say this," she began, "but if I were you, I'd just . . ." She stopped talking and pointed down the road away from the campground.

"Really?"

She pointed again.

"Thank you!"

Today I saw my fifth bald eagle and my first wild turkey of this tour. I've also seen many hawks and vultures and countless waterfowl. But when it comes to mammals--aside from dogs, squirrels, and roadkill--I've seen nothing. Seriously. Nothing! I'm a big fan of wildlife sightings, but it's just not happening for me this year. (Having said that, I did enjoy HEARING some wildlife from my tent early this morning: owls hooting, coyotes howling, and what I assume was a raccoon snuffling around my campsite--most likely searching for the Wisconsin cheese curds I carelessly kept inside the tent with me.)

I started riding today with high hopes that my wildlife drought was about to come to a dramatic end. I had five more miles of the Great River State Bike Trail and most of that would be through the Trempealeau National Wildlife Refuge. Get it? WILDLIFE Refuge.

By far, the best part of the Great River State Bike Trail is located within the boundaries of this refuge.

Wetlands of the Mississippi River backwaters. In the distance is a bluff named Sugarloaf. (That's the one with the sandstone spire at the top.)

The refuge was definitely more scenic than yesterday's portion of the trail, but still the only wildlife I saw were more birds--ducks and herons mostly. The only mammal I saw was a mouse-like rodent that darted out right in front of me. I know there are bigger animals here because I saw plenty of scat on the trail--big scat--but I didn't see the animals themselves.

Of more interest to me was the activity of a helicopter flying overhead. Attached to the helicopter was long cable with a big basket at the end. The last time I saw something like that I was backpacking in Death Valley National Park. A lifeless body--a suicide victim--was being evacuated from a canyon near Telescope Peak. This morning, with that memory in mind, I was a little creeped out.

A peace offering to my home state and to its never-ending road work.

Downtown Winona as viewed from another Mississippi River crossing. Sugarloaf is still looming.

Another grand Catholic church--The Basilica of St. Stanislaus.

I arrived in rainy Winona early and I spent most of the day here. I like riding around in the downtown areas of cities. I gauge the health of a city by the appearance and the quality of its bars and restaurants. Winona appears to be a fairly healthy small city. It continued to rain all night long.

Today's ride: 19 miles (31 km)
Total: 1,501 miles (2,416 km)

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