Saint-Girons

June 1, 2014

Over Col De Portel

This was an awesome day. It began well - the rains ended sometime before sunrise, and the skies began opening up during breakfast; and, armed with a hardier tire lever I had no difficulties replacing Rachael's flattened tube. I see though that the tire is starting to wear through in spots. Hopefully when we get to Luchon, which appears to have a well stocked bike shop, we can find a replacement for it.

After breakfast we started in on the main event for the day - the long, gradual climb up the Arize Massif (the broad ridge separating the Arize and Massat valleys) to Col de Portel. It is fairly steady and modest from the east, with the stiffest stretch at about 8% for two miles or so below the first landmark, Col des Marrous. Shortly after this we broke out of the clouds and fog, and by the time we reached Col de Peguere the views south to the high Pyrenees were spectacular. This was followed by another small rise to the full summit, and then a long, long descent along a narrow, windy road, little more than a path actually, to the valley floor again. I think we were passed by only a single car in ten miles on this stretch.

At the bottom we stopped for our picnic lunch as a small park by the Salat River, and then headed upriver and steeply uphill to Alos and over Col de Catchaudegue before dropping to the lovely riverside village of Seix. We were surprised by the climb out of Alos - although fairly short, it proved to be the steepest of the day. From Seix, we raced downriver along the bank of the Salat to Saint-Girons.

We have arrived at the perfect time - the weather is breaking in our favor, and small patches of snow at Col de Portel show us that we shouldn't have arrived much sooner. It is a beautiful time to be here, with abundant snow on the mountains enhancing their grandeur, wildflowers dotting the fields and highlighting the roadside, and the rivers, streams and waterfalls all raging with spring runoff. It was exhilarating following the Salat downhill at the end of the day, listening to it roar and racing the whitewater.

For dinner we celebrated with a splurge at the delightful, small cafe Le Saint Gi. This was probably my favorite meal of the tour so far. It began with an unordered starter - a delicious puréed mushroom soup. Next, a pair of great salads - Rachael's was a tasty-looking cheese/greens/walnut blend, and mine (a coulliouroise) was a delicious pile of greens flanked by a school of sardines, with peppers arrayed below. Rachael had duck breast - a bit too fatty and rare for her taste - and I had a small, delicious rack of lamb. Somehow we still had room for desserts - ultrarich chocolate gateau, and pear soaked in spiced wine. Wow.

Net elevation gain: 5,300' today, 56,300' total.

Video clips from Col de Portel:
The ascent: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=73ED18EEC8BA7424!555&authkey=!AKgyGUNi43w2nBk&ithint=video%2c.mp4
The descent: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=73ED18EEC8BA7424!554&authkey=!AA9orFe1nJ2RonI&ithint=video%2c.mp4