Oleron-Ste-Marie

June 7, 2014

Col d'Aubisque- c'est ouvert!

We have been incredibly lucky with the weather this week. Since the gray damp day in Luchon, we have been in the midst of an early summer heat wave. Highs in the low country are in the high 80's, and the mountains are warm and peasant. We have also been perfect in our timing of the season. Col d'Aubisque, the high point for this year's tour, was not opened until yesterday. We feel a gleeful elation as we leave Arrens-Marsous, the last village before the pass, and see the sign confirming it is indeed open.

There are countless writeups of this famous pass, but for those unfamiliar with it - the eastern, easier approach begins with a very steady 8% six mile climb to Col du Soulor; drops down about 400' to traverse Cirque Litour on an amazing road that looks like a knife slice across the ultra steep rock face of the cirque; and then another 800' climb in two miles to the final summit. The views throughout are wonderful - this is one of the most inspiring climbs I can recall - but none of it quite prepares you for the shock of rounding the bend at the top and seeing the massive array of peaks that's been hidden from view until the last minute.

Because it is still very early spring in the mountains, the streams and waterfalls are all rushing and filled to their brims, spilling over at points in sheets of water washing over the road. And because it is an incredibly beautiful day, the pass is newly opened, and it's Saturday to boot, it seems like every cyclist in the region is on the slopes with us.

At the top, it is warm and calm enough that we enjoy sitting on the grass and basking in the wonderful 360-degree views as we eat our lunch, watching the antics of cyclists as they reach the summit, cheer each other on, and pose for photos in front ot the summit sign and the giant bicycle sculpture that honors the Tour de France. It all has a very festive air. Gradually though, reality sets in - it is 2:30 already and we still have 35 miles or so ahead of us.

By now, you know the drill - careen off the mountain through a procession of crazysteep switchbacks, feeling fortunate that we took the easier approach; race the river downstream and away from the mountains for 10 miles or so, until the ridges are low enough to cut through to the next valley over. We arrive at our hotel town, Oloron-Ste-Marie, about 5:30, leaving us time for badly needed showers and a few minutes unloading and poring over photos from the day befor heading out again for a meal.

Rachael has done her advace research well and steers us to an attractive restaurant across the river in the plaza beneath the cathedral. We enjoyed dining outside in the balmy evening air, hearing/tracking swifts crisscrossing the sky and swirling around the cathedral rising above us. After dinner we walk over to the cathedral to give a better look and admire its remarkable portal and carvings. Later, in the room, I see that I had not done my own research very well. The cathedral is well known as the best Romanesque church in the region, and listed as a UNESCO world heritage site. We would have missed it had we not stumbled across it at dinner.

Net elevation gain: 5,600' today, 83,000' total.

Video clips: Cirque Litour: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=73ED18EEC8BA7424!564&authkey=!ABgIhDKEU4FSgW4&ithint=video%2c.mp4 Descending from Aubisque: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=73ED18EEC8BA7424!563&authkey=!AGcdpI7opfJO-kM&ithint=video%2c.mp4