July 31, 2024
To Waldshut.
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Not all cycle touring days can be rainbows and unicorns. Today was one of those days. But, let's just begin at the start of today's ride.
Even though we were only in Basel for one night, the city left a nice impression on us. First, it's a cycle crazy city with bikes zipping along everywhere, and hundreds of bikes are locked up all around the city and I imagine finding bike parking is a big issue in Basel. It reminds us of Bolzano, Italy; another bike crazy city that we've visited in 2016 and 2022.
The other thing that we will remember about our one night stay in Basel, apart from my swim in the Rhine last night, is the incredible trolley transit system, very similar to the TTC in my birth town, Toronto. You had to be alert riding your bike around town so as not to catch your tire in a rail at the wrong angle. And, equally careful crossing streets in this city so as not to be plowed down by the trams that run so frequently around town. So, Basel was good for a one night stop on this trip, even though the heat forced us to retreat to our room for a good part of the day.
After being spoiled by another incredible breakfast spread at Hotel Rochat, we were on our way around 8am. When we went to the bike storage, it took some wrestling of other bikes to free ours, but once we did, we strapped on our panniers and were off down the streets of Basel on another adventure. We crossed the Middle Bridge to the north side of the Rhine and then headed east along the Rhine cycle path which ran through riverside parks that paralleled the river, and the early morning light streamed through the trees. The morning sun was in our eyes as we headed east, and oncoming backlit runners and riders shared the path with us as we cycled along. I thought as I was riding along the riverside that Basel seemed to be a very active city, much like Vancouver, and people were friendly often nodding and greeting you with a Guten Morgan. A great way to begin the day.
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We meandered and rode along separated cycle paths amidst shaded riverside parks following the Rhine upstream, and the Rhine appeared to be flowing quite high and with a large volume of water stirring eddies and bubbling blueish green churning waters . In fact, when I researched the whole phenomenon of 'floating' down the Rhine, there was a warning that there should be no floaters going down the Rhine due to high water in July. But, there's always those rule breaking miscreants out there, isn't there? :P
Not soon after leaving Basel, Switzerland, we crossed the border back into Germany and rode as far as Rheinfelden on the German side of the border. We then crossed the Rhine once again over the Alte Rheinbrücke, and were soon deposited back into Rheinfelden, Switzerland. We're approaching an area between Germany and Switzerland with very scraggily border, and you could easily be in either country from just crossing the Rhine. You hardly know whether you need Euros or Swiss Francs. It's also strange to see the old border crossings still standing even though the EU was created about 40 years ago.
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Rheinfelden, Switzerland is a beautiful town and when we arrived, we hopped off the bikes and slowly walked its medieval center with colourful flags strung across the narrow main street. Rheinfelden looked to be a well preserved and prosperous medieval town and we took our time slowly strolling along and taking it all in. At the end of town we soon passed through gate beneath the soaring guard's tower before heading on our way.
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The miles from Rheinfelden to Mumpf were perhaps the best miles of the day, bringing us onto good gravel roads amidst the cool shade of oak forests hugging the Rhine, and we said to ourselves that it was so refreshing to get out of the sun. It seemed as if we had the whole route to ourselves. The only sounds were the crunching of tires on the gravel and we were also rewarded with peek-a-boo views of the Rhine off to our left. Only occasionally did we see any other people.
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We've been following the Eurovelo 6 cycle route for the most part of today's ride, and for some reason this Switzerland section from Mumpf onwards seem to think it was okay to throw riders onto a busy motorway. The traffic was fast and heavy enough to make this stretch a very unpleasant experience, and I shook my head at why this was even considered a route for cyclists at all? Shame on you Switzerland! And shame on you Eurovelo! On top of all of that, I broke a spoke. So, I rode on a slightly wobbly wheel towards Waldshut. It's not a trip ender, but it's something that I'd like to get taken care of sooner rather than later.
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If you even come this way, I suggest not following the Eurovelo 6 on the Swiss side. I can't speak for the German side route, though. Maybe it's better. Instead, plan an inland route away from the Rhine before Mumpf. Trust me. You don't want to ride this road!
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For several kilometers we were teased with being put onto busy motorways, then peaceful cycle paths, then back onto the motorway again. By the end of today's ride, all we just wanted to do was get to Waldshut. Like I said, not all cycle days are rainbows and unicorns. And, this really makes us reconsider our our planned route tomorrow as we are now very hesitant to be following the Rhine and Eurovelo 6 to our next stop at Stein-am-Rhein. More google map research and street views are in the plans before we head out tomorrow.
In the end, we arrived at our destination tired and road weary. Tonight's accommodation is at a campground that also has rooms above the restaurant. It's right on the Rhine and looks to be a lovely spot. We arrived before check in, so we had a refreshing beer under an awning amid the 34 degree temperatures; and, along with the breezeless day seemed to make it feel even hotter. The campground had a digital thermometer and as we sat, we watched the temperature steadily increase over the hour. We also knew that our room did not have air conditioning, but were also hoping for at least a fan, at the very least. When we checked in, the room was a baking oven and stifling. And. No fan. We thought to ourselves....this is going to be a rough night's sleep. And, we need our sleep!
We asked reception if there were fans to use, but no dice. That's when I took it into my own hands and decided that I was hell bent on getting a fan. It was THAT uncomfortably hot in the room. You may think that I'm embellishing, but it was *&^%*7, *@^%'n %$#@-$#@! hot! It's an expression that I made up, but I'll never reveal it to anyone. Sue's the only one who knows.
So, believe it or not, I opened up google maps and looked for stores near us to buy a cheap fan for the night. With luck, I found that there was an Obi store, kind of like a Home Depot, about 3 kms from our campground, and off I trudged under the 34 degree weather, walking along a cycle path beside a busy highway. In hindsight, I should have rode my bike, but I thought I'd stretch the out legs a bit.
I tell you, it was not the most pleasant walk I've ever had. But, I was determined. As I walked along the cycle path with the roaring trucks and traffic roaring by, I became acutely aware that I was the only person out walking around these parts; and as people drove by, they looked and me with curiosity, perhaps thinking, "What the heck is that guy doing walking out there?". But, I distracted myself with the beauty of the roadside wildflowers, and I finally arrived at the Obi Store. When I entered the store, there was no messing around. I walked directly to the fan aisle, scoped out a cheap 20 Euro fan, and got the hell out of there.
I walked back along the same unpleasantness, still focusing on the wildflowers which seemed to make the return walk go by much faster. When I finally arrived back at the campground and walked up the stairs to our room, I opened the door with the fan in my hands to the jubilant raised arms of my love, Susanna. Mission accomplished. When I assembled it and turned it on, it made all the effort worth it. The fan immediately transformed our room from a sweltering sweatbox to a breezy and tolerable oasis, and I'm planning on passing on this gift of breeze to the next guest I see.
So, that's about it for today. Hopefully, tomorrow's route is a little more tranquil than today's.
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I grew up on Spätzle. Have them along with Boeuf Bourguignon!😋
2 months ago
2 months ago
Today's ride: 65 km (40 miles)
Total: 841 km (522 miles)
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https://www.cycleblaze.com/journals/bigtour2014/rheinfelden-roman-ruins-and-wonderful-new-friends/
Enjoying following along - mirrors our ride in 2014 - a great route.
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