To Immenstadt.

August 4, 2024

No more flat river riding. A climbing day into the incredible German Allgäu region

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Lindau sits on a tiny peninsula that juts out into the eastern Bodensee. It's linked to the mainland by a tiny strip of land on which run bike lanes, a rail line, and the main road into the Altstadt of town. At the time of it's founding in 810, Lindau was an island with a very colourful history. It was founded by a monk from St. Gallen, then a nunnery was established followed by the Franciscan monks, Romans and the list goes on. It wasn't until 1853 that the causeway was built for the railway, linking it to the mainland.

After arriving yesterday, we went for an afternoon stroll along the waterfront and into Lindau's vibrant inner harbor lined with upscale hotels, and expansive and busy outdoor patios with people enjoying meals and drinks under huge patio umbrellas. But, we knew if we walked a little farther along the waterfront, we'd eventually find those small local kiosks with their own patio umbrellas that are usually located in beautiful public parks where you could take off your shoes, and run your toes through the grass and have a beer under the shade of a giant sycamore tree. So. We found the perfect spot, grabbed two Adirondack chairs, two cold beers and sat and did what we both love to do; people watch and take it all in. When, we got too hot, we went for a swim in the Bodensee. That's how we spent our afternoon off of the bikes. What more could be perfect?

Staying in the Altstadt of Lindau had it's advantages and disadvantages. The advantages were that we were close to the incredible pedestrian center surrounded by intricately muraled buildings, as well as the inner harbor lined with upscale hotels, outdoor patios and an esplanade for gelato eating walkers.

The disadvantages were that our rooms were in a modest old hotel called Gasthof Inselgrabben, where we shared a common bathroom on our floor with other guests. The building was a few hundred years old and and had slanted creaking floors that did not keep secrets when guests had middle of the night bathroom breaks. We also had to leave our windows open since we didn't have air conditioning and our rooms were filled with the sounds of the night life in town which went into the wee hours of the morning. Oh, and let's not forget the church bells announcing every quarter hour. So, an almost sleepless night. Lesson learned. Don't stay in the Altstadt on a Saturday night.

But, surprisingly we were both refreshed enough to take on the tough day ahead. Just about to push off this morning from Gasthof Inselgrabben.

We both woke up groggy, had breakfast and plied ourselves with as much coffee as possible to get us through the toughest day of the trip so far. We've been pampered riding the flat rivers and along the pan flat lake paths on this trip, and this has been by far our easiest cycle tour ever. But, today it's time to wake up the legs and get climbing.

As we rode down the causeway and out of Lindau towards the mainland, our route began to climb up and away from the Bodensee, and up towards the highlands of the Allgäu region of Germany. We ascended through residential neighbourhoods, then into the forested hills just outside of town. So, far the route was quiet and basically car-free, and grades of the climbs were manageable and we both praised RideWithGPS for the route so far. But, we know from experience that RWGPS can always surprise you with some unwanted adventure.

Crossing the causeway out of Lindau this morning.

After crossing the Leiblach River, our route reared up and became increasingly steep, and we climbed further into the hills and farm lands dominated by milk cows, and vast green rolling hills as far as the eye could see, and the views continued to improve as we gained elevation.

Approaching the town of Weissenburg and looking back towards the Bodensee and Lindau as we gain elevation.

Gaining elevation and entering the Allgau region of Germany. Just spectacular countryside while riding along separated paths along the shade of Sycamore trees.

Continuing the get more and more remote and rural as we gain elevation.

At some point, RWGPS led us to what seemed to be the last farmhouse on the hill and what lay ahead looked to be a deep impenetrable dark green forest, and the end of the road. But, as we passed the farmhouse and turned the corner a wall of steep gravel appeared. Steep gravel that wove it's way up and deep into the high forested hills of this area. This part of today's ride was quite the adventure as we rode gravel sections up to 25%, which , at times forced off our bikes and to push up the steepest of sections. This went on for 5 long kms, and the trail continued to deteriorate from ridable gravel, to muddy single-track with roots and rocks, once again forcing us off the bikes. After about 5kms of this, we finally popped out of the forest and onto good old asphalt. Ahh...What a relief it was to be back on a good ridable surface.

Just past the farmhouse. This section of loose gravel was ridable, and Sue displaying her excellent bike handling skills.

Oooo. And this little beauty who managed to be seduced by this plant long enough for me to get a good shot.

Finally we popped out of the forest and were glad to see this dual track gravel road lead to asphalt just up ahead.

We descended into Lindenberg im Allgäu and stopped for a coffee and an good slab of Apfelkuchen. We sat and processed the crazy last five kilometers, and we looked forward to being on a road for the remainder of the day.

The rest of the day was hands down the most beautiful day of the tour and we rode over hills and down into the valleys of this beautiful region of Germany. The views were vast with deep green forested hills and valleys that rolled off into the horizon, while cows, dairy farms and pastureland dotted the contours of this amazing landscape . This is incredible riding territory and it's no secret as we passed hundreds of people on bikes on our way to Immenstadt.

Sorry. Photos don't do justice. You just have to come and ride here yourself.

Sharp punchy climbs are always rewarded with quick fast descents.

The Allgäu here is a high plateau at around 750 meters above sea level.

We stopped here, listened to the babbling of the brook and ate the sandwiches that we had made from our breakfast. We both said to each other what a perfect moment this was.

Descending towards Immenstadt with a nice tailwind to boot.

The approach to Immenstadt was particularly spectacular. The scenery was out of this world, as well as the stonking tailwind and downward gradient for the last 10 kms. Despite some short risers in the terrain, we just coasted and admired the scenery. This part of the ride more than made up for the challenging gravel part of our day.

The scalloped shingles seem to be common here in the Allgäu.

We skirted the north shore of the Alpsee and we stopped for our usual end of the day beer. Best day of the tour.

Through the haze, you can see the Bavarian Alps. That's where we're headed tomorrow on our way to Fussen.

End of the day beer at spots that we love. Kasspatzen is translated as 'Cat's Paws' and is an Allgäu region Spätzle dish with onions and a blend of local Allgäu cheeses and emmenthal.

Today's ride: 60 km (37 miles)
Total: 1,061 km (659 miles)

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Scott AndersonLooks fantastic. We’ve never seen this part of Germany but should try to get there someday.
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4 months ago

Patrick O'HaraTo Scott AndersonHi Scott. I'm sure you'd really love it here.. The photos don't do it justice.
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4 months ago

Suzanne GibsonThe Allgäu is one of my favorite parts of Germany for cycling -I am so glad you loved it!
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4 months ago

Suzanne GibsonAny idea when you will be in Bad Tölz?
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4 months ago

Rachael AndersonTo Scott AndersonIt is beautiful but I’d rather not do the 5 km of bad road! We’ve done enough of similar riding to last a lifetime!
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4 months ago