To Garmisch-Partenkirchen.

August 6, 2024

A stunner of a day with some gravel adventure and incredible scenery.

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There were two choices for today's route to Garmisch. One was to head south and into Austria through Reutte, the east along the northern shore of the Plansee, then into the wild, vast and remote Ammergebirge region; home to the largest area of mixed mountain forest in Bavaria. Since there was not a a way to scope out the road surfaces in Google Street View, and there didn't appear to be a lot information online about riding it on touring bikes with panniers, I was hesitant to take us into this remote region without knowing what kinds of road surfaces and grades we'd be facing.

So, I planned out a more conservative and sensible northern route which allowed us to spend more time in the Allgäu region, which we both didn't object to at all. And, today's route was a winner.

We stayed at the Hotel Sonne in Fussen. It was perhaps our swankiest digs on the trip, and we heard our bank account groan and my wallet whimper after staying there. But, what the heck else are we going to spend our money on? Coming to Europe for a month of cycle touring each year is something we've done for over a dozen years now, and it's something we both thoroughly enjoy. We've always valued experiences over things anyways. Some people love things, some people love experiences. Some people are lucky enough to do both.

Turns out the places that we have chosen to stay on this trip happen to be the same ones where everyone else wants to stay, and these tourist destinations have a price. Simple economics, I suppose. After the best breakfast spread of the trip, and making a sneaky sandwich for the road, we pushed out of Fussen and headed north, crossed the Lech River and made our way north along the eastern shore of the Forggensee. But, not before giving the chains some attention with a good cleaning and some lube.

We've been so lucky to have generally great weather on this trip. Another great morning for a bike ride. Just crossed the Lech River and are headed north.

It was strange to be riding out of Fussen again. We'd been along this same stretch on our tour in 2011 when we rode the Romantische Straße (Romantic Road) south from Frankfurt. Today we rode the route north, and I always remembered the incredible views of the Bavarian Alps through this incredible valley. It was nice to know that I remembered this area in the same way, and I kept turning my head to look back at the mountains rising south of Fussen. It's so strange to be here thirteen years later, yet I still remember this vista. Time is a funny thing.

On the cycle route heading north out of Fussen. Tall reed grass swaying in the wind with an incredible backdrop.

The beginning of this morning's ride was slow from all the stopping to take photos. So many landscape shots....

Susanna saying, "Not another landscape shot with me in it?" Ugh. But, when you're the main photographer, and I'm only riding with one other subject, this is what you get.

The infamous Neuschwanstein Castle. We've been here twice, never had a desire to do a tour. We're not castle people, I suppose.

Had to rescue this little beauty crossing the cycle path. But, not before taking a photo. Just incredible.

Me turning back to remind me of our approach to Fussen in 2011.

These two machines bring us lots and lots and lots of joy! There's no experience quiet like a cycle tour. Time plays tricks on you. When you return home people often say, "You're back so soon?" But, for us, it seems like we've been gone for so much longer. Can someone please explain this to me?

The view to the east while riding north of Fussen.

We rode north along this wide and vast valley on quiet lanes, peaceful country roads and cycle paths until Halblech, when the cycle route signs indicated that we could get to Altenau by taking a short cut across the northern section of the forested Ammergebirge region. This short cut could potentially cut 20-30 kilometers off of today's stage. So, the short cut it was.

We had originally planned on heading further north towards Wildsteg, then heading south through the towns of Bad Bayersoien and Bad Kohlgrub with some confidence that the roads would be good, and that we might potentially have some cycle paths along this section. But, it would also mean a longer day.

So. We took the short cut that would cut right across the deep dark forests of the Ammergebirge towards Altenau.

The shortcut began as narrow and paved farming lanes with some short punchy climbs and exhilarating descents through rolling green pastures with the sounds of cowbells ringing across the landscape. Idyllic. Then, the paved surface abruptly ended after a couple of kilometers and we were back on gravel roads once again. I can tell you, our skills riding gravel roads with loaded bikes is improving on this tour and we knew that we might be in for a long section of this.

This curious gal came right up to the fence as her friends shied away.

The calm before the storm. Sue climbing and gaining elevation. The Bavarian Alps in the distance.

So, there was about 10kms of that jostling about. But, it was also incredibly beautiful as we slowly bumped along through the shade of oak and beech forests of the Ammergebirge Natural Area. From time to time we'd see other bikers who were usually on e-mountain bikes, and it was reassuring to know that if they could get through this section, we could too. Then, before you knew it, we were back on asphalt just before reaching Altenau. Phew. We both agreed, that although this was a long section of gravel to be riding, the shortcut was worth it.

Decent gravel riding for the most part. But, there was also some rocky loose stuff too; keeping you on your toes.

A good creek crossing to add some adventure.

This was quite a debris field and I imagine the torrent that came down from the mountains would have been a sight to see.

What followed was more spectacular scenery as we entered the valley of the Ammer River, which is a tributary of the mighty Danube. We rode through the town of Unterammergau and it's more picturesque sibling Oberammergau, which was a very popular and busy Bavarian town with timber frame houses adorned with geraniums hanging from window boxes, and painted images on the sides of houses depicting historical and religious images of scenes from Bavarian life of the past. All so wonderfully Bavarian. We thought many of the visitors must be day trippers from Garmisch-Partenkirchen. We only stopped for a coffee and pastry and were soon on our way.

After reaching Oberau, we made a precipitous 200 meter drop through steep heavily trafficked switchbacks with no shoulder, and I can tell you it was a tense descent towards the Loisach River valley. This descent was a hold onto your hats kind of scenario, and it was important to assert yourself and take your lane to deter cars from trying to pass you around blind corners. Asserting yourself on the road also deters cars from try to thread the needle between you and another oncoming car. It sounds counter-intuitive, but it's way safer to ride this way than to hug the right guardrail and provide cars with that kind of space. There are always idiots that will try to squeeze by if you give them room. But, most drivers gave us the time and room that we needed.

Hay sheds scattered about the hillsides. Bavaria.

In the Ammer valley approaching Unterammergau and Oberammergau.

Groups of cyclists enjoying this popular cycling area.

We both agreed that when we hit Garmisch-Partenkirchen we'd call it a day. The gravel, and busy steep descent was enough for one day. We decided we'd take the 20 minute train from Garmisch to our destination at Mittenwald. After about 65kms today, we'd had enough, and we didn't need to prove anything to anyone about completing the last 30 kms to Mittenwald to make it almost a 100km for the day.

So, when Zugspitze, the tallest mountain in Germany reared up and came into view on the horizon, impressively soaring towards the sky, we knew we were nearing Garmisch. We rode straight to the train station, bought tickets and boarded the train for the short ride to Mittenwald. We're here in Mittenwald for two nights, so we're looking forward to only our second rest day of the trip. It won't be a total rest day, though, as we're looking at potential hikes in the area for tomorrow. We'll see how we feel tomorrow.

Approaching Garmisch with Zugspitze looming ahead at 2,962m above sea level. The tallest peak in Germany.

Train platform in Garmisch-Partenkirchen. It's a hot one today.

Mittenwald. Looking forward to a hike up there tomorrow.

So, once arriving in Mittenwald, we rode straight to the hotel, checked in and showered. We avoided the sun and stayed in the room and just hung out. Since we have another day here, we'll check out the town tomorrow. I've just finished my cold beer, and with that, it's now time to wrap this part of the day up. Another great day on the bikes.

Today's ride: 63 km (39 miles)
Total: 1,191 km (740 miles)

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Rachael AndersonHow great that there was a train you could take! I hope you have a great day tomorrow and let your bodies recuperate from the tough day.
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4 months ago

Patrick O'HaraTo Rachael AndersonIt was a great day. We got in two hikes, and a good nap!
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4 months ago