To Moutiers: Over Col de la Madeleine

June 17, 2015

Finally we're here. For days Rachael has been dreading this climb and she and I have been verbally sparring over how tough it will be:
R: I'm worried about Madeleine. It looks really difficult. I hope I can make it.
S: It will be hard alright, but not really any worse than others we've done by now.
R: No, Madeleine is harder. I've been studying the profile.
S: I don't really think so. It's much like the others - it climbs at a steady 8% for 5000', so it's just a bit longer.
R: No, look at the profile. It's steady for 11.5 miles. It never quits.
S: You're just worried because you've forgotten the others. Think of Ventoux. Think of Bonette. It'll be fine.
R: No, those had easier spots to give you a break. Look at the profile.
S: OK, I agree. Madeleine will be really hard. But we can do it.
R: No, not just really hard, the hardest.

Finally, we're here.

For the record though, she's right. According to Climbbybike.com, Madeleine from the west is rated harder than any climb we've done so far: the 37th hardest climb in France. Our climb to Cime de la Bonette is close, but only 42nd. Ventoux, Galibier, and Croix de Fer all have climbs that rate higher, but up the other side from our approach. Madeleine from the west looks like this:

For the first time in over a week, we awake to a day without the threat of rain. In fact, the forecast for the remainder of the trip is fine. We take our time a bit over breakfast, in no big hurry to tackle Madeleine, and don't make it out the door until after nine. When we check out, we tell our hostess where we're bound and she cautions us that Madeleine is an unkind woman.

The first eight miles of the ride follow the Arc River, backtracking the end of yesterday's loop. It's much prettier today, with its dramatic cliffs visible instead of shrouded in dark clouds. Before long we arrive at the pretty village of La Chambre and stare somberly at the monument marking the climb to Madeleine.

Our hotel in Saint Jean de Maurienne, decked out in preparation for the arrival of the TDF next month. It's another very bike-friendly place we really liked: good and early breakfast, good storage facilities, laundry service.

Traveling downriver along the Arc, bound for La Chambre and the start of the climb to Col de la Madeleine.

La Chambre, the base of the southern climb to Col de la Madeline

As we knew it would, the climb starts immediately from the heart of the village, similar to yesterday's climb to Croix de Fer. Unlike yesterday though, this one gives no respite. It's all up, up and up for the next eleven plus miles. It's a great day for a climb like this though - overcast, windless, cool at the bottom and almost cold at the top. And, for me anyway there's the advantage that this side of the pass is not too scenic because until nearing the top it rises through miles of forest with only sporadic views. This helps because I'm not driven to stop and whip the camera out every few minutes, breaking my momentum and letting my legs stiffen up.

There is no doubt it's a tough climb, but not the monster we feared. We get into the right rhythm and level of exertion, counting off kilometer markers and the elevation gained (1000 feet! 2000 feet! Yes, I know - I have a GPS too, you know), and suddenly we've broken out of the trees into alpine slopes and ski runs, and the summit rises just beyond us.

At the top is the usual crowd of cyclists coming and going. Also a pair of restaurants. We decide to eat at the summit since Rachael is cold and wants to warm up a bit, and I want to wait and hope the skies open up a bit so we can see the famous views to the east and Mont Blanc. Lunch was good, but neither of us quite got what we wanted - Rachael was still cold, because she drenched all her layers in sweat once she stopped climbing; and it was still overcast so our views were limited.

About a thousand feet off the valley floor, looking back at La Clusaz. The Glandon valley is in the distance.

About halfway up Madeleine, climbing our way into the clouds

Looking down on Saint Francois Longchamp

The meadows below the summit are just clearing off the fog

At long last, the col is just around the bend

Time to join the crowd for some lunch, Col de la Madeleine

The northern side of Madeleine is much more interesting than the one we climbed up on, and made a great descent. It's much more open, with great views of the walls of the deep, steep sided canyon and the meadows below and around us. Huge and wild streams and waterfalls fall from the cliffs. Once again, free we are coasting down and down on a seemingly endless descent. The road is a bit unnerving though - no shoulder, narrow, precipitous, and a bit rough. The biggest hazard is the other bikes though - every so often one appears suddenly in th mirror behind us and blasts by with no warning, just off our shoulder. Here's a video from the lower part of the descent.

Finally we reach bottom, and turn upriver along the Isere to our night's stay over at Moutiers. It's a funny day's itinerary, almost a mirror - 8 miles down the Arc; 12 miles up to Madeleine; 13 miles down from Madeleine; then 8 miles up the Isere.

Beginning the descent from Madeleine - more miles of crazy hairpins ahead. There's a photo of this spot in our cycling guide taken on a clear day, showing Mont Blanc filling the horizon. Not today though, so use your imagination.

One of the dramatic waterfalls cascading into the canyon. This one plunges under one of the last remnants here of the winter snowfall.

One of the main hazards on the descent from Madeleine - downhill racers approaching suddenly and silently from behind and whizzing past your shoulder.

Back along the Isere again. Seems like we were near here just two weeks ago.

After cleaning up and resting a bit, we wandered through Moutiers a bit. It's not really a tourist-oriented place, but it has a really attractive pedestrianized main street, a pair of lovely bridges across the Isere, and an attractive cathedral. Perfect for a short exploration before we settle into a restaurant for some badly needed refueling.

The old bridge over the Isere, in Moutiers

The old bridge and Saint Pierre Cathedral, Moutiers

The covered pedestrian bridge over the Isere, in Moutiers

Today's ride: 45 miles (72 km)
Total: 1,074 miles (1,728 km)

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