At Saint Jean de Maurienne: Over Col de la Croix de Fer

June 16, 2015

We were up early again this morning, coming down to breakfast at the starting bell, 7:00. Like yesterday, we're trying to get our ride in before the predicted afternoon rains. We're at another great bike-friendly hotel, and at breakfast everyone looks like a biker except for one heavy-set man that looks more like a trucker. We saw later that he's in this mix because he's driving the sag wagon for a cycling tour group.

The climb to Col de la Croix de Fer (the pass of the iron cross) begins with a bang: the climb begins within a few blocks of our hotel and climbs steeply through the upper town and on into the Arvan valley. We climb 1000' in the first three miles, and start getting good views right from the start. After this there's a slight drop of a few hundred feet and then we're climbing steeply again, gaining nearly 3000' in the first 8 miles.

Still following the diminishing Arvan, the way eases off a bit as we climb up an alpine meadow through a string of skiing and farming village. In the center of the final village, suddenly the road tilts skyward again and we climb steeply for the next seven miles as the road switchbacks steeply above the river and up the side of the mountain. It's a tough but beautiful climb, with the views improving with each turn of the pedals.

Finally, we crest the ridge, arrive at the summit and mix in with the throng of celebrating cyclists congregated around the summit marker. Croix de Fer is one of the biggest and most famous climbs in this part of France, and is on every cyclist's must-do list if they're in the region. The whole time we're at the top there is a constant stream of arrivals and departures, and most folks that arrive gravitate to the sign and wait their turn to pose before it.

While we are at the pass we walked up a small knoll that rises above it for an unblocked 360 degree view. It's stupendous, beautiful in every direction. It is nearly as impressive a vantage point as we enjoyed yesterday at Galibier. It amazes both of us to have experienced two such exceptional climbs in succession.

The climb to Col de la Croix de Fer begins steeply, and immediately.

We were lucky to get this view of the Aiguilles d'Arves. Five minutes later, the rightmost needle was lost in the clouds. In another five minutes the second one disappeared. Five minutes more, and they were all veiled. If we'd slept in a bit longer we'd have never known they were there.

In the High Alps, even the horses are pretty special.

An abandoned bridge and short tunnel, low on the climb to Croix de Fer.

This looks like the same black marl formation that we saw in the Ubaye and Durance valleys.

Some old structures we passed along the way.

Looking back at the string of villages lining the Arvan valley.

One of the final hairpins on the climb to Croix de Fer.

The iron cross that gives the pass its name.

The lichen-covered granite is beautiful at the summit.

A stone memorial crowns the small rise above the summit. The 360 degree views from here are astounding.

Eventually we realize that the weather is starting to feel questionable, and decide it's time to drop off the mountain. We have hopes of arriving back at our hotel or at least to the valley before the rains come, but that's still over 20 miles away. Also, we didn't bring a lunch with us and we hope to get back before stores and restaurants are closed for the midday break.

The ride down is the by now familiar race through a dizzying series of sudden hairpin turns, awesome and ever-changing views, motorcycles and faster bikes whizzing suddenly past us, stunning waterfalls, and roadways that for mile after twisted mile are bordered by a cliff on one side and a drop off into the void on the other. It is both totally exhilarating and totally concentrating. There's nothing like it. Here's a video.

This descent has a twist to it - a small saddle that doesn't feel like much more than a speed bump going our way, but from the other direction is the end of a long, difficult climb: Col du Glandon. We pause from our descent long enough to pose beside the sign - after all, we feel entitled to credit just for being here, even if we didn't work much to get here. This pass of course has its own scrum of loitering cyclists, but today it also had a few hundred sheep wandering around and spilling into the parking lot. Great fun to watch the sheep as well as the sheep watchers.

Around 1:30 or so we arrived back on the valley floor. It's still 8 miles back to the room, it's not raining yet, and we're both starved so we drop in at the only restaurant nearby. We're in luck - we are the last customers in the door, and within 10 minutes they started shutting things down. Just in time.

After lunch we head upriver along the Arc and back to our hotel. We're pushing our luck with the weather though - by now it's quite grey out and the wind is picking up. Two miles or so from town it starts lightly sprinkling, and by the time we return to the hotel it almost qualifies as rain. Within 20 minutes it starts raining in earnest, and soon it's pouring. The rainstorm continues nonstop until 7, and then pauses just long enough for us to dash to a restaurant again. Another masterpiece of timing!

The view to the east as we start our descent.

Going our way, Glandon was a mere speed bump on the descent. Why don't I ever get to pose for the tough climbs?

Some sheep at Col du Glandon. A few thousand more were over the edge on the slope below.

Dropping below the tree line, Croix de Fer

A situation we could never tire of: our ride is done, we're warm and dry in our room, and it's pouring outside.

Today's ride: 43 miles (69 km)
Total: 1,029 miles (1,656 km)

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