Day 2: Confluence PA to Cumberland MD
Finally, some Downhill GAP
The next morning I packed up, had some Food Mart apple strudel and a banana for breakfast and was back on the GAP by 8am under cloudy, misty skies with a temperature of about 46 degrees. This section starts out as Riverview GAP along the Casselman River, with some sections of Green Tunnel GAP, where the rail line stayed away from the river and carved a path through the woods. This includes a stretch where the Pinkerton tunnel cut through a loop in the river. There is a detour that follows the river, for use when the tunnel is closed - I've never done the detour but have heard it is a beautiful ride along the Casselman and worth the extra miles.
This portion of the GAP is a really beautiful green tunnel, with lots of pine trees mixed in. The warm Octobers we have now seem to have muted the fall foliage colors but the dark green evergreens and mountain laurels made nice contrast with the yellow leaves. I usually see lots of wildlife in this section - this time mostly chipmunks but I did see 4 white turkeys and one Thanksgiving-colored turkey. No deer - but I did exchange Howdies with a deer hunter in a tree stand next to the trail.
I stopped for water input/output at Rockwood and chatted with a couple who were driving to Michigan from Philadelphia via the back roads. They had hoped to rent bikes in Rockwood but the rental place seemed to have closed for the season. There was a small tree down over the trail a few miles later, but easy to get over. I had passed a couple doing fully loaded camping bike touring and wondered if they would have any problems getting past.
As I crossed the Salisbury Viaduct on the way into Meyersdale, I could see the Twin Ridges Wind Farm wind turbines were all spinning, generating pollution-free energy. I stopped at the Meyersdale Visitors center with 30 miles down and about 32 to go and chatted with several other bike tourists. This is great stop, with indoor restrooms, snacks for sale and many exhibits. I used the facilities and by the time I came out I had cooled off - and the skies had darkened, the wind had picked up and the altitude gain made it a tad chilly.
As I was leaving, the fully loaded camping touring cyclists pulled up and when I asked how they made out with the downed tree, the husband said "We just bunny hopped over it..."
The 7 or 8 miles from Meyersdale to Deal crisses and crosses Flaugherty Creek, but in general is one of the least attractive segments of the trail. But, just past Deal starts Downhill GAP, at least in the direction I was traveling! I've done Confluence to Cumberland in both directions, I actually kinda prefer the Uphill East to West version.
With 23 miles to go, I went through the small tunnel (really a large culvert) at McKensie Hollow Road and crossed the Eastern Continental Divide - my sweat would now flow into the Chesapeake Bay. It was all down a 2% slope from there to Cumberland. Always fun to go through the long Big Savage Tunnel which had all lights working this time, but I got a chance to use my headlight to see the surface better.
I last rode this section in 2018 and it was always embarrassing to a Maryland resident how bad the trail surface was compared to the PA GAP. But, Maryland seems to have stepped up maintenance and the surface was great - with just a bare level of effort I was doing 18-19 mph.
A tourist train (diesel, not steam) passed me on the way up and I enjoyed the views from Helmstetters Curve and of the Cumberland Narrows with the famous "Lover's Leap."
At 1pm I rolled into the Western Maryland Railway Station and Mile Zero of the GAP with 62 miles done and reunited with Carole - who had a phone with a working camera...
I changed my clothes, my wife and I checked out a new (to us) fancy olive oil and vinegar shop/winery at the Canal Place shops. We then drove west and met our friends Ken and Felicia at the trailhead to the Rock Maze trail just west of Deep Creek Lake and had a nice walk around and through the boulders deposited by glacial movement many years ago.
The next day was rainy and drizzly, but we did manage to sneak in the short three waterfall loop at Swallow Falls State Park.
A quick shower then dinner at Moonshadow- a phenomenal place to eat if you are ever at Deep Creek Lake. We ate indoors, but there is outdoor seating, firepits, bean bag toss (I still can't bring myself to call it "Cornhole") and live music.
On Sunday we had planned to do a 5 mile loop in New Germany State Park, but once again it was misty/rainy, so we packed up and headed home.
Today's ride: 62 miles (100 km)
Total: 155 miles (249 km)
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