Dear Pacific Northwest...

May 21, 2015

your weather is stuck over western Maryland

Sometime early in the morning, and when I say EARLY, I mean REAL EARLY, like 1 or 2am, the rain started. This struck me as odd because I didn't expect the skies to open and downpour over the tents. Then again, I didn't check it prior to turning in to bed, so maybe it was a cruel trick on nature to soak the rainfly on the tent. I was half-tempted to phone the Pacific Northwest and see if they lost their weather, because this is the 4th day out of 6 it has rained on this trip.

So this means I get out of the tent with my rain shell on and pack everything up wet. Thankfully, the rain was not pouring otherwise I would have been completely soaked, but yes, I was wet as I started the day's ride.

The trail hugs the Potomac in the big blackwater area. This is where the canal diverted onto the river in a slow-moving area created by damming the river

The trail eventually rolls onto a concrete pathway built into the river. This was installed by the National Park Service about a year before I rode it in 2015 in order to repair the constant flooding. What used to be a dirt path and then wooden and would constantly get washed out is now structurally sound. I enjoy the ride along the river.

The concrete path in Big Blackwater - you can see the rain has stopped at this point

Just past Big Slackwater, the trail turns inland, the canal enters, well, the canal instead of the river, and there's a historical structure off to the side. The big white building held floodwater gates, so if the water level of the river was too high, the canal managers could lower the gates to keep the canal from flooding, or having too much water rush into it. The canal was kept at a constant water flow and depth (I think about 6').

The building housing the canal floodgates

About this time my original route had me deviating off the trail and towards Antietam through Sharpsburg. I wanted to visit the Civil War battlefield and see the ground where one of the most famous battles of that was took place. And yet, I knew I was tired and beat from the rain. It was also about 48F out so with the drizzle earlier it was cold and I wasn't a "happy camper". I didn't want to not follow my original plan but I felt I needed a half-day of rest in Harper's Ferry. So I made the decision to bag Antietam and ride on the canal to Harper's Ferry and take the 1/2 day rest there.

It's just a bit before noon and I get my first glimpse of Harper's Ferry across the river. Happy to get there as this was another wet morning (the rain started back up again).

Harper's Ferry across the Potomac - you can see the low clouds skimming across the top of the town

I booked an overnight stay in the Tea Horse hostel so I knew I would be staying in the town overnight (walk around a bit, get a nice dinner, etc). This meant I faced two challenges getting to Harper's Ferry - (1) lugging both the bike and trailer separately up the stairs from the canal path to the railroad bridge over the river and (2) the steep hill up Washington Street to the hostel. Well, I carried the bike up the stairs, reconnected everything, and made my way to the bottom of the hill (see picture below). I figured, this is it, and shifted into 1st gear, and began the climb. My legs spun quickly at first, and then the steep grade of the cobbles began to rise up to try and defeat my progress. My pedaling cadence diminished but I dug deep and pedaled even harder. 10'...20'... I climbed the "wall"...30'... and then I ceremony quit. No sense in trying to kill myself and there was no shame in pushing it uphill through the rain this day.

Washington St, Harper's Ferry - yes, those are cobbles, yes, it's a steep grade, and yes it was wet

I made it to the hostel but no-one was around to check in at 12:30 (they were out purchasing goods for the waffle breakfast the following morning). I locked my bike to the fence and took my backpack and rain jacket with me for a stroll about town.

The former Storer College, closed in 1955. Now used as a training center for the National Park Service. Beautiful setting

Didn't stop here but DID like the image of the colorful umbrellas. Of course umbrellas mean rain...Sigh

I walked around the town, and over part of the Appalachian Trail. It routes through the center of town, and the HQ of the trail is right in the middle of the village. The part of the town around the historic area is very much the way it used to be in the 19th century, and the interpretive areas are set up as such. Washington St has some commercial shops selling crafts and trinkets, and its' a great place to pick something up for the folks at home not on the tour. I get a necklace for the wife and earrings for my girls (easy to carry on the tour).

Steps carved into the hillside. Once upon a time, there were more buildings cramming this space. BTW - these steps are part of the official Appalachian Trail. It's routed right through the town and over the bridge onto the other side of the Potomac

View of the historic area of Harper's Ferry climbing the bluff. You can see the railroad bridge in the upper left and the Potomac in the upper middle of the photo. Harper's Ferry is a great side trip on the C&O

I get back to check-in by 3:00, but none is there. I phone them and they provide the code to get in, choose a bunk, and instructions for where to put my bike. I put the bike in the shed and pull out the tent, hanging all the wet pieces in the rafters to hopefully have it dry overnight. Then, I shower in the hostel. This is a luxury of having a hostel or hotel room every few nights - a shower. I also am able to wash my socks and gloves in the sink. You can't imagine how gray that water became. At 5:30, I head off to dinner at the Canal house and have a nice 2-hour dinner. I even meet Rick and Ed when they invited me over to their table to help finish their (second) bottle of wine

Canal house. Good locally-sourced ingredients for the food. It's BYOB, but there's a wine store about a block away down the hill

Today's ride: 36 miles (58 km)
Total: 316 miles (509 km)

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