October 2, 2022
Day 128: Bush camp to Nullarbor
Start: 8:30am
Distance: 87km
Ride time: 5:37hours
Average: 15km/hr
Max: 23km/hr
Finish: 4:55pm
I didn't pass any road signs yesterday stating a time zone change but my phone and gps have automatically adjusted to a new time.
The last few days have been confusing to work out what the correct time is. I think the roadhouses just choose what time zone they want to operate in. Bizarro world.
Now I'm on Adelaide time and won't have any more trouble.
I slept soundly last night without any others to disturb me. I felt so happy being next to the ocean even though it was 100 metres below.
I did lots of kms into the punishing headwind and stopped at a lookout
The 'Nullarbor' commonly refers to the 1,100kms between Norseman and Ceduna.
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It's a surreal thing to be on a vast flat, open plain where I can see the horizon in every direction and not see a tree or a hill or anything.
It felt very peaceful on this overcast 20 degree day, except for the headwind. When I did this in 2013, I had a maximum temperature of 46 degrees and then it felt like a very dangerous place to be.
This afternoon it rained slowly for a couple of hours. I initially wore my rain jacket until it became too hot. I took it off, knowing I only had an hour to reach the roadhouse. Otherwise I would have left it on to prevent becoming too cold. It's always a bit of a gamble.
I was coping with the rain okay. The worst part was when an oncoming road train would pass. Their draft sucks up all of the water from the road and then blasts you with a wall of water as they go by.
This is made even more worse if it is a cattle truck. Then it feels and smells and tastes like you are being covered in water, faeces and urine.
When I see them coming I brace myself, gripping the handler bars tightly, hold my breath and close my eyes. Unfortunately I can't do this long enough to escape the experience.
Today was truly another struggling day. Anyone that rides this road is amazing. If I had enough water, I would have stopped long before the roadhouse.
I arrived at the roadhouse drenched, a bit cold, and exhausted. At the reception counter, the lady's first words to me were: "you're wet." I didn't have the energy for a witty response and simply said: "yes."
I made camp and had a shower. The water wasn't hot enough for me to need to use the cold tap.
I was pleased to see Craig again. He too had found today exhausting. It was nice to be with someone that had also experienced the same hardship.
He had a room and we both retired to our separate digs for an early night. The roadhouse was full of people drinking, getting ready to watch a rugby final.
The caravan park is just a big gravel area, typical for a roadhouse. I had chose to put my tent up next to a shelter, inside an area segregated by big rocks as sometimes I worry that I might get run over by silly caravan drivers.
Today's ride: 87 km (54 miles)
Total: 7,558 km (4,694 miles)
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