29th October

After packing up the airBnB, we found a money exchange shop to buy Euros with the remaining Bosnian Bam — the rate was very poor, partly because since Croatia joined the euro last year, most money exchanges have closed down, according to the staff working there — as MayLyn bought the Euro’s the staff member said, sincerely, ‘sorry for this theft’.

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After getting some baked goods on the outskirts of Slavonski Brod we followed a minor ish road heading west, paralleling the motorway and trainline. Despite being marked on Komoot as a cycle route, the road was quite unpleasant with a steady stream of cars and lorry’s passing for most of the morning. It was also quite a long day, at around 95km — we put our heads down and just cranked out the Kms.  

When we stopped for a snack outside on the patch of grass at late morning, an elderly man came out and started trying to talk to us in a friendly way. We still had a long day of cycling to go, so were keen to keep going, but a few times he gestured for us to come in and mentioned chai. As we often don’t turn down invitations for tea, we accepted his, and rolled the bike into the courtyard. As we walked in, a younger woman of around 50 years old came in and started to say what sounded like harsh words. MayLyn recorded it using the translation app, and indeed the woman was scolding the man for inviting strangers into the house. We left immediately, waving goodbye to the older man.

We arrived at the town of Novska around 4:30, just before sunset. We are staying at an airBnB, where the entire building is rented out short lets, of around 5 apartments. All the units and furnishings are brand spanking new, but a hospital has more charm. For dinner we had quesadillas, inspired by Pierre who cooked them for us all the way back in Dushanbe.