Khorog; 22 - 23rd June - From Aqtau - CycleBlaze

From From Aqtau

By Ken ..

Khorog; 22 - 23rd June

We stayed at the Welcome Inn, in Khorog. We met Augustin, an American/ Hungarian cycling to China who was heading across the M41 and went to an Indian restauarant. 

Considering we'd had one round of food poisoning in Tajikistan already, maybe going for the Indian wasn't a good idea. The owner of the hostel instructed us, in the strongest possible terms, not to order any meat or dairy. Unfortunatley, in one of the dishes Augustin and I shared, there was some paneer. Consequently, he spent most of the night with his head hanging over the toilet, and me running there every few hours to relive myself t00.

Augustin recovered the next day and set off. I took another day to recover -- the hostel owner gave me charcoal tablets on the third day, and these seemed to help a lot, or I was getting better anyway -- but soon after, my stomach got better and the frequent visits to the toiler were no longer necessary.

On our first day in Khorog, we went to a car mechanic to see if they could weld the fork. He said the metal was too thin for him to work on, but he suggested the homestay next door, who may be able to help. The owner did indeed have a welding machine, and a young welder came over and fixed the front left boss. It didn't look pretty but it did seem sturdy.

Hooking up the frame to the machine so he could perform some electrical resistance welding. I haven't considered cycling on anything other than steel frames, but this was confirmation that for touring, it is a strong choice of frame material.
Heart 0 Comment 0
reassuringly bulky weld
Heart 0 Comment 0
Heart 0 Comment 0

We also visited the Afghan market which is held on Saturday's. This is where Afghans come over the river to sell things -- walking around the market, it was mainly ordinary everyday household items -- soap, cloths, toys, some fruit and veg etc. 

Afghan market in Khorog, held on Saturday's
Heart 1 Comment 0

On the second night we met Guiallaume, a French motorcyclist who was heading towards Mongolia. On the day we left Khorog, MayLyn and I were trying to decide which route to take -- the M41, which is paved, or the Wakhan, which goes south and is unpaved. We had planned to take the Wakhan, but with the fork having sustained some damage, we were not sure if this was a good idea. We joined Guillaume in the cafe, and the three of us looked at the map and the route profile and came to the conculsion that as there was more ups and downs on the M41, there probably wouldn't be too much different in the potential risk to the fork. So we decided to take the Wakhan.

This is the view from the Khorog Botanical gardens -- Wiki says it was built in the 1940s to research how plants fared in mountaineous conditions
Heart 0 Comment 0
Rate this entry's writing Heart 1
Comment on this entry Comment 0