Khiva to Bukhara; (2/x); 24/06

Friday 24th May

Left the guy’s house after breakfast of nan (the word for bread is nan here, and it’s a big circular flat bread), said goodbye and headed off. After about 5 minutes the guy phoned me, as he thought we’d give the wrong way to Bukhara.

Half way through the day we entered the desert again. The tour guide in Khiva had explained most of the water for the farmland comes from underground aquifers — I think this explains why the contrast between lush, arable farmland and the dry desert expanses is so stark — it’s almost like someone has drawn a line demarcating the two.

I didn’t mind being back in the desert though. There are truck stops and food stops every 50-60km or so, and it’s easy to find somewhere to stay. I found the road from Nukus to Khiva and out of Khiva a bit boring —traffic a bit busy, and I found the towns and farmland a bit samey. The desert is also samey, but also quite scenic, and you can sometimes get rewarded with wildlife like interesting flowers or turtles, camels etc.

Having a break from the heat. Most eating places have these elevated platforms to sit with cushions

After about 40 km through the desert we turned off into a track and found a flat spot in a depressed spot of ground, hidden from the road.

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