Khalai Khumb to Khorog (2/X); 18th June - From Aqtau - CycleBlaze

From From Aqtau

By Ken ..

Khalai Khumb to Khorog (2/X); 18th June

18th June

In the morning, we heard someone say 'hello?'. I thought it was a soldier. I poked my head out the tent and it was a teenage boy who had just come to say hello and practise his English.

Boy's cow in the distance
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We chatted as we packed up the tent. He had his cow with him, which had a rope tied around his neck, that was staked to the ground. When the cow had grazed the area he was limited to, he would moo, and the boy would move him to the next spot.

We were camping on his family's land, but he didnt' mind. He said cyclists often camp in this area. So we had nothing to worry about after all, the night before!

We continued cycling to the next village, which had a homestay marked on the iOverlander app. Part way through, I had to lie down on a tapchan and sleep for an hour or so, as I wasn't feeling very well. MayLyn cooked scrambled egg and we had it with some dhal which was rejuvinating.

Delicious lunch
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Typical of this stretch of cycling -- arid road surrounded by imposing mountains
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We found the homestay at the top of a hill. It was comfortable place, with a decent shower and tapchan to have dinner. We decided to camp in the garden as there was a flat spot, with the sound of the small stream flowing near by.

As we were having dinner, a couple from France arrived on bicycle. I immediatlry recognised the bikes as being from outside the hotel in Khalai Khomb. We had dinner together and talked about the past few days. They shared our feelings on the road condition which made it very tough to cycle. We discussed where we had camped the night before -- they had camped by the graves -- and I realised the guy who I had thought was paying his respects was actual the guy we were talking to.

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