16th June 

12 km and 600 m elevation to the top. Saw lots of animals today: large shepherd dogs one of whom wanted to play with us; lots of sheep and goats being shepherded across the mountain top; fluffy, orange coloured animals about the size of a 2L bottle of milk, possibly marmots, that popped up from a distance or bounded across some rocks when they noticed us, and a big group of large eagle like birds that flew away from the peak of the pass as we approached. Also, very strangely, the head of a cow which appeared to have been severed very recently. 

The final ascent was difficult on the rutted and gravely roads, but the views were brilliant. Felt great to be at least almost at the snow line of the mountains across the other side of the valley. 

Towards the top, we chatted to a group of German motorcyclists who had rented their bikes from Osh and were on a 2.5 week trip of the Pamir’s. They had come from the Wakhan corridor, and said the road conditions there had been comparable to what we were currently riding on. 

At the peak we took some pictures and started the descent. The ascent had offered views of the large expanses across the valley; the descent followed a ravine like route with narrow but imposing views. We passed some shepherds on the way who were looking after some newly birthed cows. 

We passed a military checkpoint at the bottom where they checked our passports. It was then a short ride to the town of Kalaikhum where we  are now, at the western style Karon Palace Hotel.