Wednesday 15th May

Today is notable as it feels like we have left the desert. Towards the end of the day, almost out of nowhere, the large expanses of arid nothingness stretching off into the horizon finished, replaced by vegetation and small rivers/ canals. 

We pulled off the main road and found a small clearing to camp. When it was dark, there was a thunderstorm in the horizon, with lightening strikes seemingly within the clouds themselves which was an amazing spectacle. 

The offerings of the chaikhanas has also changed. Beside the hot meals, between Aqtau and Nukus, it was limited to non-perishable items — chocolate, room temperature soft drinks, chewing gum, toilet paper; but from today, there are eggs, biscuits, a refrigerator with milk, Ayran etc)