To Saint-Louis

June 2, 2024

Today I was braving the train system again. After the first day I was seriously averse to ever getting on a train with a bike again, and even made car rental reservations to get me from Metz to Basel and from Strasbourg to Ottweiler to give me options. The train reservation I’d made weeks ago had two changes from Metz. With my luck I’d have to change four platforms. But the other day I found another train that changed only in Strasbourg, and, it turned out, on the same platform! Okay, cancel car reservation.

I got to the Metz station early to give myself plenty of time to get to the right platform. I rolled Red to the bottom of the stairs and trudged up with the panniers. The bike car was close to the head of the stairs so just I dropped off the panniers in there, then went back down for the bike. This time there were plenty of stronger people going up to the platform. When asked, one gent was happy to help me. That was a relief.

On the car I got to know Monika and Hans, a Swiss couple who were able to carry their own bikes up the stairs. They had just finished a short tour in France and were returning to their home outside Basel. We chatted in a mix of English and German about all sorts of things. They gave me some good info about the Alsace wine route.

The ride to Strasbourg was calm and relaxing. The views were not spectacular but they were of a nice rainy landscape.

The lobby of the Best Western. Big Red was never alone at night.

Monika and Hans, a Swiss couple who live outside Basel, were returning from a short tour along the canals. They were a big help to me in getting settled on the train, and also a help when we changed trains in Strasbourg. We had a nice conversation about all sorts of things.

In Strasbourg it was a mob scene. Luckily no platform change was needed, but the train was late and more and more people were accumulating. More and more cyclists, too, for the limited bike space. I lost Monika and Hans but anyway it was every cyclist out for themselves in this crowd. There were a lot of SNCF staff, however, and when the train at last arrived one of them led me to a bike car. Another cyclist who had just gotten off took my panniers from me, then yelled to be heard above the noise, probably saying something like “get the eff on there.” Red disappeared up the steps even though people were still getting off. My new friend handed me my panniers, I pushed my way on, got Red situated in a corner for hanging bikes, stowed the panniers, and found a seat. Whew.

We made it on to the next train in Strasbourg, and got our own corner. There was no way I was going to try to hang Red up on the provided hooks (not shown).

I got off in Saint-Louis, a town right on the border with Basel. That’s where my niece and her partner are staying. I was able to get help carrying the bike down a set of stairs. That turned out to be at street level for once. Whew.

It was raining. Not hard, but with a little breeze it was chilly. I had a while before it was my apartment check-in time. There was not much open on a Sunday afternoon in Saint-Louis. I rode around a bit until the rain increased and I found shelter.

When we talk about bikes having to negotiate stairs in a train station, this is what we mean. Down from one platform and then up to get to the next or to the station exit.

I want to thank this synagogue for offering me just enough cover from the drizzle while I put on warmer clothes.

Taking shelter from the rain while waiting for my check in time.

I’m renting a small apartment and my hosts couldn’t have been nicer. There were a two steps here and three steps there to get to where Big Red was quartered around the back of the house, and every time I needed to come or go with the bike, Carsten insisted on moving it for me. And I let him, thank you very much.

The view out the window of my apartment for the next three nights.

I took a bus to meet Hannah and Alex at an Irish pub near the old city of Basel. They live near Boston so it was great to have this chance to see them again.

We were trying to take selfies when a woman from the next table offered to take a photo for us. That’s how we met Mandy and her husband Willie, over for the weekend from Ireland. I’d had a beer so I felt free to launch in to reciting all my Irish bona fides, including my name and all the Irish names of my siblings, and my mother’s maiden name (“Oh yeh, there’s Gormans in my family too,” said Willie, when he could get a word in edgewise), and where we’re from in the ould sod. Their son is older now so they feel free to take off for other parts of the world more often.

All these great people. I had a pretty darn good day.

Mandy and Willie from Ireland, in Basel just for a weekend getaway.

Today's ride: 5 km (3 miles)
Total: 261 km (162 miles)

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Suzanne GibsonI so admire your courage, e-bike and trains is a challenge, especially if you are traveling alone.
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3 months ago

Kathleen JonesThanks. Yes, I suppose it did take some courage, looking back. I know you’ve dealt with this too so you know what it’s like.
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3 months ago