Day 1 of vineyards vineyards vineyards. I rode almost exclusively on EV 5. That meant two things: I didn’t have to think about navigation because there were enough signs to show cyclists where to go, and there were a lot more touring cyclists, coming and going. Another warm and muggy day.
Today’s destination was Eguisheim because it was about the right distance for a next leg, and it was outside the city of Colmar. Suzanne had told me that Colmar was worth seeing, but she recommended staying outside of town. Based on the maps, Eguisheim had a really interesting medieval street layout. And the hotel I chose, the Auberge du Rempart, made me think town walls.
I was up early, but my host Gwenaël was up and gone even earlier. He left me the run of the house, which, because my breakfast was included, included the kitchen. I had my pick of meats and cheeses, yogurt, bread, butter and jam. Coffee. Beer.
Fresh loaf of bread waiting for me when I came down.
It didn’t take long to get to the edge of houses and out into the fields. There were the first of many more kilometers of vineyards I would ride through. I love riding through vineyards. I love the distinct smell of them, a little sweet, a little musty. You can almost feel how hard those vines are working to bring us good wine.
With all the other cyclists on the route, sometimes we played leapfrog. I’d stop for photos, and a cycling couple would ride by, saying bonjour. Then I’d pass them as they took a break. Repeat. In the town of Rouffach I rode down a side street and saw a couple at an outdoor table that I’d leapfrogged several times. They laughed as I passed, waving at them. There’s a nice little camaraderie on the road.
In Rouffach, the old city wall ain’t what it used to be. But then again, it’s still there.
I arrived hot and sticky at the auberge. They allowed me to check in early. The building was remodeled in 2012 so it had mod cons like air conditioning, thank goodness. Being in a garret room it would have been quite warm otherwise. Yes, lots of stairs again, with a very narrow and steep staircase.
The auberge had a good restaurant, so I dined there on Poulet au Riesling avec Spätzle in the courtyard. The courtyard had a large fountain in it, taking up about a quarter of the space.
After dinner I took a stroll around the circular streets of town.
Partaking of the local product. The fountain is in the background.