October 19, 2021
Travel / rest day in Toulouse
Well, our train scheme sure went awry! First, our Intercités train to Carcassonne was delayed, meaning that we would miss our TER connection to Avignonet. Then we discovered that all the TER trains for the day, except two in the late afternoon, had been canceled!
We were quick on our feet and tried to get our Intercités journey extended to Toulouse. The agent at the station said to just get on the train and talk to the conductor about it. We figured that she was passing the buck, but it turned out that the conductor was the right guy to ask, and he was more than happy to let us stay on for an additional stop.
Boarding, which was supposed to be easy, was anything but. We figured out the system that lets you know where to stand for your carriage, and we were all lined up for it. A platform employee comes along and says, no, go down to the front. So we do that, the train arrives, and of course, the bike car is at the rear! So we run back there in a panic, where thankfully the same conductor who would later let us stay on the train to Toulouse helped pull our bikes up the carriage steps while we pushed. He even let us stow our bikes with the panniers on rather than hanging the bikes on hooks. He was just an all-around super guy, and I'm going to assume a cyclist himself. He was very empathetic and wink-wink about everything.
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The ride is very pleasant, with no further surprises. At the Toulouse station, we wrangle with the bikes while another passenger with a bike waits patiently to board. The platform has no elevator. I scout our exit strategy, finding two elevators up, so the stair situation all of a sudden seems quite manageable. We take the bags off and carry everything down separately. Put the bags back on, roll to the first elevator, and -- nope, it's out of order. Just then an older man offers to help us carry our bikes up the steps. It's a short trip of maybe 6 or 7 stairs. I try to decline, but he insists, saying, "I'm a cyclist, too!" He really was a big help. The second elevator worked flawlessly. We were ready to tackle Toulouse.
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So, to awesome train conductor man and awesome bike lifter man, here is my expression of appreciation:
Car traffic and bike traffic were both heavy as we followed the canal to our hosts' home. We stopped at Lidl to pick up some lunch items, then met Jeanne, who was kind enough to let us drop off our panniers so we could explore the city without having to worry about them. The bike always feels twitchy those first five minutes of riding unencumbered, but after that it's so liberating!
We enjoyed our standard sandwich lunch at the Jardin des Plantes, then we moved on to the Place du Capitole and the Basilique Saint-Sernin. The basilica was interesting because they played up their historic role as a stop for pilgrims. They have a web site that gives an English-language explanation of the building's highlights. Then we returned to the plaza to enjoy a drink and to people-watch. It was fairly crowded for a Tuesday afternoon.
Our final stops were Pont Neuf and the Garonne River quays. I thought we had done a pretty good job as self-guided tourists, but when we returned to our hosts and told François how we had spent the afternoon, he said, "you saw about 10% of the city". Guess we'll have to return some time!
We really enjoyed getting to know François and Jeanne. We're the first Warmshowers guests they've had in quite some time. It makes us feel grateful for their willingness to accommodate us, but the feeling is mutual because they are sincere in their enthusiasm to welcome us. We had a great conversation and got to sample some wonderful food and wine. We talked a lot about the hosts and guests we've had over the years. I sometimes talk trash about Warmshowers (like I did just yesterday), but you know, it's a good concept and still a great way to meet fellow cycle tourists and make lasting memories.
Our goal tomorrow is to reach Moissac, where a supposedly open campground awaits us. Pardon the automobile metaphor, but there's still some gas left in the tank. Let's go!
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Today's ride: 19 km (12 miles)
Total: 2,575 km (1,599 miles)
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