Phayao - Chiang Muan - Frankie goes to.....the North of Thailand (2019) - CycleBlaze

November 10, 2019

Phayao - Chiang Muan

I knew from my very own experience: the closer I get to the border with Laos, the more challenging the topography will be . In 2010 I came up the other way and could simply not believe how steep some of those permanent undulations were. I had to get off a few times then and wasn´t keen on having that experience again. On the other hand I didn´t want to go straight down the highway towards Phrae but try out some more sideroads. And initially I got what I was after. THe #4015 made for a delightful flat ride. Once again no sensational sights but I am more than happy rolling through that peace- and colouful pastoral countryside.

From looking at google maps in the morning I thought there should be just one climb to be dealt with in the last third of the ride. When I stopped at a ginger farm 50 km from Chiang Muan I had a nice conversation with the owner, who speaks excellent English. As I was about to leave I said: Ahh, one last question: When does the climbing start ? - In one kilometer, he responded. And it I will last all the way to Chiang Muan. What??? Fortunately he wasn´t entirely right but the following 15 kilometers starting 49 km from Chiang Muan were very, very demanding. A rollercoaster of the abhorrent kind. Short but steep undulations that suck the energy out of you. After those 15 km I seemed to be on some sort of plateau and the difficulties eased. A couple more nasty ones after I turned left at the National Park Rangers hut but then the last 19 km into Chiang Muan were very nice. A steep long downhill followed by a fairly flat entry into the crossroad village that I have never heard off before.

I like the little town though. That´sexactly the sort of place that I am after when I am travelling the remoter countryside. A nice, clean and at 400 Baht inexpensive guesthouse (Wilai 59) and several food options along the nightmarket (talat yen in Thai). See what tomorrow brings, looks like another difficult one towards Phrae.

A last look over the special, foggy morning atmosphere of Lake Phayao from my balcony
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Chris WeeThis place has got gorgeous wood. I sort of wandered in during it's construction in 2009.
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5 years ago
Frank RoettgenIndeed, Chris. The room, the staircases and the lobby are just wonderful. Doesn´t come out on my other photos unfortunately
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5 years ago
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When I praise the excellent cycling infrastructure of Thailand, that´s part of it. A lovely little soup restaurant in the middle of nowhere along the #4015
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My new favourite and very much a Northern Thailand speciality: Khao Soi, a yellow curry soup with egg noodles (some deep fried) and chicken
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The two predominant views of the day: Rice fields...
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...and wonderful traditional villages with their full wooden houses
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At the ginger farm along the #1251
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Chris WeeSqueeze some in to hot black coffee. Tried it in Bali and it'll surely wake you up !
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5 years ago
Frank RoettgenI usually listen to your advice, Chris, but forget about the coffee-ginger one....
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5 years ago
You simply can´t get away from stopping at those places without receiving a present. But what am I going to do with one kilogram of fresh ginger?
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Chris WeeSee comment above.... haha
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5 years ago
Ute Nonhoffwell cut them up and put some of it in your water you drink during the day... ;)
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5 years ago
Frank RoettgenTo Ute NonhoffWhy does good advice always come too late, Ute? But fortunately the next trip is not that far away....
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5 years ago
The really rough terrain started only 1 km after the farm. I don´t think the steepness of these bumps turns out on the photos
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Welcomed shady rest at one of the numerous peaks
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Very demanding but very attractive at the same time
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Up in the National Park
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Along the #1251
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Look at the size of these footing trunks
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The Wilai 59 Guesthouse. This is the brand new block directly opposite their original facility as shown on google maps
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If I was asked for my favourite dinner scenario, this is it. A nice bowl of noodle soup somewhere in a little village I never heard of before
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Phayao - Chiang Muan
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Chris WeeNIce memories for me Frank. Chiang Muan is one of those places that I'd like to go back again, mainly because there's no attractions there. Simple cycling, huge teak houses, ficefields, farmland. We had dinner in the front of someone's house. A small stall with 2 tables. Brightest place in town was the new, in 2014, 7/11 opposite a concrete dinosaur !
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5 years ago

Today's ride: 78 km (48 miles)
Total: 702 km (436 miles)

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