October 26, 2019
Finally rolling! Chiang Mai - Chiang Dao
A swift look back to the minor problems with the bike I was facing after putting it together again. Still don´t have any idea how my Brooks saddle could possibly break but it was quickly replaced with another Brooks, the Cambium C 17 this time. I purchased it at the excellent Triple Cats Touring Bikes shop where Nu, the very friendly owner, was more or less closing down the shop on his way to Bangkok. That´s why I had to take the saddle he had in stock, even if the funny colour was certainly not my first choice.
When I did my first corridor test ride in the hotel afterwards I noticed the pads of my Magura HS 33 were permanently grinding on the front rim. Nothing I could fix with my own very limited mechanic skills so another "Please help me" mail to my friend Ma, owner of the outstanding Bok Bok Bike shop in Bangkok. Palm´s Bicycle Shop a few km out of Chiang Mai was his suggestion this time. And a good one it was! Palm immediately squeezed me into his tight schedule and the professional service on front and rear brakes was done within 20 minutes for just 200 Baht (6 €). Rest assured you will be helped by great people when you face problems while cycling in Thailand! All shops are to be found on google maps by the way.
And now - finally! - the first words on actual cycling! When making enquiries about leaving Chiang Mai you may read about a route along the river Ping. I have done it myself while coming down from the Mae Hong Son Loop a few years ago. Given this was the same route the other cyclists were talking about I didn´t find it overly exciting and the fact of using a new saddle I have never sat on made me go for the most obvious route: All the way up to Chiang Dao on the 107. The last thing you want when braking in a new saddle is a bumpy road and the major Thai Highways are usually in excellent condition. So 2 cm of Vaseline applied to the bum plus the cycle pants with the thickest padding on. Felt like the good old days when you had to put some grease on the leather paddings. Never done that? Sitting on a jellyfish is the best way to describe it I guess....
The 107 is a very busy Thai Highway but has a decent shoulder when you need it most, in the initial dense traffic. And that dense, dusty and noisy traffic continues for a long way. Anything about cycling in Chiang Mai so far is related to "not nice" to me. I am sure there are fellow cyclist who will disagree with my statement but the aggression against and the poor infrastructure for cyclists is actually surprising to somebody who´s been all over the country.
Things were progressively changing to the better after the Pai turnoff and once through the town of Mae Ping. Mind you the terrain becomes more undulating and the shoulder tended to be rather narrow for the last 30 km into Chiang Dao. Nothing too difficult or too concerning, the traffic was very well behaved towards me. And there was quite a lot on that Saturday afternoon. If you do have the choice, go on a weekday without the weekend traffic.
When I got into Chiang Dao I found a typical small, dusty country town and decided to go for a room near the mountains and the famous cave. I am very happy with the Chiang Dao Hut Resort about 5 km out of town. A simple but sufficient traveller bungalow comes at 400 Baht, small breakfast included. Shared showers and toilets with the standard bungalows but both very clean. Plus they run there on acceptable restaurant on the other side of the street.
Good first day! Apart from the All Blacks losing their Rugby World Cup semi final....
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Hope you holed up safe and sound for this virus - imagine you'd be like me and can't wait to get going again.
I've actually been in contact with your mate Ma at Bokbok about getting a new bike custom built there - awaiting a response from him on price. If I need to pay him deposit, what is the best way for me to get that to him?
Cheers,
Andrew
3 years ago
3 years ago
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Today's ride: 78 km (48 miles)
Total: 98 km (61 miles)
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5 years ago
5 years ago