I thoroughly enjoyed the last few days with all the events and the sightseeing part with no bike in sight. But this can only be an intermezzo. There is no doubt what real travelling has to look like for me: spinning the two wheels. Saying that I am slowly starting to get a bit more easy about my approach though. My planning phoebia for example. No more detailed pdf files considering any possible turn between start and finish line. On this ride I stick with just two essential basics: I wish to arrive in Bangkok on Nov 21 and I want to ride along mostly unknown terrain. Like the town of Phayao today. To be honest I wasn´t even aware it is set on quite a large lake carrying the same name until Palm at the bike shop in Chiang Mai told me.
So when looking at the map how to get there I found two choices: The much shorter run straight down Hway 1 or almost parallel along the eastern side of the #1. That straight way down to Phayao would have been almost 20 km less to ride and I am usually not too concerned about going down those single-digit-dual-carriageways as they do guarantee a wide shoulder. All the same, if there is an alternative that might provide the combination of nicer scenery and less traffic I will go for it if the total distance is still feasible. I knew today wouldn´t be all that difficult and the wind was to be my friend too. Straight from behind all the way so the additional kilometers didn´t worry me and my only precaution was to have an early start leaving the Chian Guesthouse at 7.30 am.
On the way out of town I decided to stopover at THE top tourist attraction, the White Temple, before crossing Hway 1. The rest of the day was going to be as easy as I was hoping for. Only a couple of small undulations on the #1020 over the last 10 km before I turned right onto the #1128. The following ride along the #1128,1126 and 1202 made for a delightful day out there. Agricultural country and corresponding activities - not spectacular by any means but the real Thailand to me.
Coming into Phayao for the first time ever I had a look at the most popular hotel platforms and was surprised to find that most of the inexpensive establishments were booked out for that night. No idea why at that stage, couldn´t be because of the long Loi Krathong weekend as all hotels had rooms available again the very next day. This still didn´t ring any alarm bells with me, I never got stranded in Thailand - it is usually just a matter of adjusting what you are prepared to spend. While I am normally targeting places between 400 and 600 Baht I arrived in Phayao ready to accept any decent room up to 800 Baht. And the first guesthouse I tried, the Huanpak Jumjai GH, offered me a room for exactly that amount. And what a place it is! Immaculate, teak wood all over and I definitely got the best room in the house: top floor with lakeside balcony. To be honest the 800 Baht for this package is a real bargain! Delighted with my choice and later I had a wonderful evening out along the lake, very much supported by meeting and talking in length to Greet and Eddy, a very well travelled couple from Belgium.
Ah, I almost forgot: The reason for the hotels being fully booked was the annual lake run being held the next morning at 6 am. Greet has decided to go for that experience when she was approached by the organizers but I certainly don´t need any additional exercise.
If you will visit the White Temple do ride back to Chiang Rai via the little no-name sideroad that starts 50 m west of Hway 1 and runs straight north towards the # 1211. After a few hundred meters you will come along this Thai "ice cream parlour".....
Fantastic locally produced ice cream of unique flavours. Three scoops on top of some sweet sticky rice come at 20 Baht and I chose Durian, Taro and Coconut. Very, very nice!
The #1020, a pretty straight forward and comfortable ride thanks to the wide shoulder, which for some reason entirely disappeared for the last 5 km before I turned off onto the #1128. By the way: The 4-digit name of the 1020 indicates some sort of minor rural road but it´s second name is Asean Highway 3 - quite busy it is!
The rice harvest is on. Has got quite some impact on my cycling as the husk is all over in the air, sticking to my sweaty skin which then starts itching big deal. Plus the shoulders of the roads are often full of mud forcing you into the - fortunately - sparse traffic
One of THE Thai standard meals and one of my favourites too. Pad Khrapao Gai - Fried Thai Basil with Chicken. I am showing it here because this one - purchased for 50 Baht (1.50€) in a little restaurant in the middle of nowhere - was one of the best ones I ever had.
