Same river, entirely different story. I knew the enjoyment of yesterday´s ride could hardly be repeated but was still hoping for more than what I got. I had read about the ride between Chainat and Singburi along the #311 on some other bicycle journal and the American racebike-author called it "somehow scenic". I guess the "somehow" is the key message, monotonuous would be my description. Additionally the strong headwind was really spoiling the fun of rolling along but I saved my morning with a lot of sidekicks towards the Chao Phraya River, unfortunately none of them continuous.
I got into Singburi, a market-town bigger than I thought it would be, just after noon and had to decide whether or not to continue towards Ang Thong, almost another 50 km down Hway 309. My legs still felt good despite all the headwind-effort and, if staying there, I would have a very short ride into Ayutthaya tomorrow. So why not do some time-trial while my saddle has been set in that position anyway? Definitely not a traveller´s attitude but every now and then I really enjoy pushing those pedals as hard as I can. Nothing missed on the way I believe. The same sort of highway-through-rural-countryside scenario with just one particularity: This stretch along the Chao Phraya River must have the highest density of temples I have ever seen. One after the other with only very few villages around. Where would the monks possibly collect their alms in the morning?
I rolled into Ang Thong just after 4 pm and by looking at some reviews on google maps I had already decided to stay in the large, old but clean Ang Thong Hotel. The owner herself was sitting at the reception and made me very welcome. 400 Baht for an aircon room with excellent wifi and the bike safely locked away in one of the function rooms downstairs. Happy with that! And even more delighted about Ang Thong itself. Not the same nice river promenade like Chainat but a huge market area that seems to put you 50 years back in time. Exactly what I am after, glad I came here!
As there were very few photo opportunities today I will share my daily nutrition with you. Normally I would have at least one rice or noodle soup in the morning but today the fried rice noodles featured below was the only dish the lovely little restaurant right on the river had on offer.
I wanted to show you the courtyard of the Numchai Hotel in Chainat as this is a rather typical setup and size you would never expect in such a small country town. There are two more blocks with rooms in my back and I keep wondering: Who for? Anyways, good for us as I can hardly imagine the receptionist telling you: Sorry, fully booked. PS. In case you get here too and do prefer fan rooms like me, go for no. 206. It is the one on the 1st floo in the smaller building on the right. Here you can see the 5 windows out to the courtyard - no need for aircon, in particular as the fly sheets are in good shape
The Chao Phraya Dam, celebrated as a tourist attraction. I couldn´t see the attraction about it, just an ordinary concrete dam like hundreds others. Later on I was much rather made aware of the negative impact of that irrigation related water retaining
What I enjoyed looking at while stopping at the dam was this machine though. It cuts and collects all the floating hydrophytes. The two saw blades on the front are just about to go into action in this photo
A late breakfast with a view while rolling along the riverbank. This dish is called "pad see eeow gai", in Malaysia known as char kwoi tiau. In English: Fried rice noodles with chicken. So many names but one thing doesn´t change: it is a simple and delicious meal
Chris WeeTo Andrea BrownThe true Malaysian ones are fried with lard, shrimp and cockles. Sometimes you can get a side order of fresh, raw cockles.
Vampire food for Frank the connoisseur. Reply to this comment 5 years ago
That´s the impact I was talking about above: very low water in the Chao Phraya. Not a temporary condition obviously as they are setting up full restaurants in the river bed
This is one of Thailand´s huge advantages over all its neighbouring countries: the outstanding and inexpensive street food. This is roast duck on rice with pickled ginger and gravey. The little bowl of soup comes complimentary with most rice dishes all over the country. Plus free drinking water of course. At this restaurant in Singburi I had to pay 40 Baht, 1.20 €. For duck!
Another attractive plant I have seen growing along riverbanks a few times now. The blurry blue thing in the background is a local ferry by the way giving you the chance to cross over if you wish
Som Tam Hoy (papaya salad with mussels) on the left, Pad Khrapao Gai (fried Thai basil with chicken) on the right. 50 Baht each at one of Ang Thong´s excellent night markets.
