A very pleasant experience this 1 and 3/4 hour trip on the "ordinary" (3rd class only) train into Bangkok's central station, called Hualamphong. Knowing about riding a bike into and through Thailand's gigantic capital I can only recommend to do the same if you should be coming in from Ayutthaya. And that's why I wish to share today´s experience and what I would do different the next time.
1. Getting to Ayutthaya station: I checked the map and the most logical route would be riding the Uthong Rd along the "inside" of the Lopburi and Pasak Rivers and then cross over on the bridge of the #309. But.... What looks like one bridge for the river crossing are indeed two and the route mentioned above will take you only onto the northern one with no left turn towards the station for quite a while. I did a prohibited left turn at the end of the bridge and cycled against the traffic until the intersection taking me up to the station. Stupid and anything but safe. Just believing I would know better than google maps. What I should have done is going through the centre of the island along Wat Ratchaburana and the get on the #309 a bit earlier and then -still tricky enough - make sure you keep on the very right at the Y-split to get on the right hand, older bridge which will allow a left turn on teh other side. So many words for such a minor manoeuvre? I guess you have to do it wrong as I did to understand.....
2. I checked the train times as well and there were two ORD (ordinary) trains with convenient departure times leaving Ayutthaya at 9.41 and 10.27 am. Being up early thanks to the dogs of the neighbouring properties I decided to go for the earlier train. Only to learn the 9.41 one doesn´t have a freight carriage and the 10.27 train remained the only choice. No worries, I didn´t have any breakfast (=rubber toast) at the homestay and roamed the direct vicinity of the station for some nicer food. Successfully as you will see below!
A couple of hectic moments when the train arrived as I was waiting at the wrong end of the platform and had to race to the very front, where the freight carriage is always located as I was told later. Don´t take this for granted though!
Getting into Hualamphong things were far more relaxed. The dead-end setup of the station with all platforms on the same ground floor came to my advantage. No stairs or lift required on the way out. Plus the huge bonus of having booked a room in the OYO Krungkasem Srikrung Hotel as it is positioned directly next to the station. Just roll the bike through the carpark, cross the klong on the little pedestrian bridge are you are in their lobby. A very old hotel with rooms that are not all that spacious and certainly not up-to-date but the view is outstanding if you ask for a higher floor on the station side. Actually not inexpensive at 1100 Baht for a room (average breakfast buffet included) since the Oyo chain has taken over but that´s when I convert into my home currency: 30 € is certainly a good price for what you get and traditionally my reward when finishing a trip in Bangkok.
Breakfast no. 1: Joc moo / rice porridge with minced pork at one of the stalls in the lane directly opposite the station. Very nice at an incredible 20 Baht. Would even have been only 15 Baht if you don´t like the half-cooked egg in it
Chris WeeThere's a bike friendly ferry across the river that leads to the lane that leads to the Ayutthaya train station, all in an almost straight line. I did the opposite route last May, trying to cut down the 1500m trek to our guesthouse in 40C heat. Reply to this comment 4 years ago
Thanks to the long wait I even had time for breakfast no. 2 with a view just 300 m north of the station right behind the temple: sen lek nahm khon nuea / thin rice noodles with beef in dark broth
Look at the price for me, the actual passenger, on the green ticket: 15 Baht ( 40 € cents) for almost 2 hours on the train! The larger ticket underneath is for the bike and came at the standard price for a journey within Thailand: 90 Baht.
The inside of "my" train. The cargo carriage is right in front of the compartment and the conductor asked me to sit down on the left as you can tell by my panniers in the racks above. What you will see as well is the sign "Reserved for monks / disabled / senior citizens". I am afraid I have to face reality and simply accept the advantages of seniority...
I was fortunate twice while in Bangkok: Firstly the annual charity and food festival of the Thai Red Cross was on. The whole of Lumphini Park is dedicated to food stalls and charity booths. Very impressive as such but what I simply couldn´t believe was this queue of several hundred meters at the Ovaltine (the Asian branch of Ovomaltine) stall where they serve the malt drink in special-occasion plastic cups. And EVERY single customer took a photo of the cup after purchase and posted it on social media. As to be seen in the front of the picture.
Secondly the "Terracotta Warriors" exhibition is currently presented at the Bangkok National Museum. Would have been well worth the 200 Baht admission by itself but....
...what impressed the monks and me even more were the regular exhibitions of traditional Thai handicrafts like these carved temple woodworks. On top of the various theme rooms in this building (i.e. puppets, musical instruments, royal court attire, porcelain etc) they have several other buildings on the various Siam / Thai epochs. A museum as it couldn´t be any more entertaining and instructive at the same time!
My ride in summary. Although I spent a lot of time on major roads it has always been very entertaining. Because this is Thailand! See you again on this site at the end of April 2020 when I will start riding in Hanoi....
Today's ride: 6 km (4 miles) Total: 1,449 km (900 miles)
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Bruce LellmanAnother great journal, Frankie. I like your easy, happy and informative prose and your beautifully colorful, sharp, well composed and also informative photos. Your obvious love for Thailand is paired equally with my own. Add it all up and in my opinion your Thai journals are the best journals for me. I enjoy them immensely. Thank you so much. I will be looking forward to your Vietnam journal. We had a blast there three years ago. Reply to this comment 4 years ago
Frank RoettgenTo Bruce LellmanYour very kind words leave me behind bashful, honored and inspired at the same time, Bruce. Any words from my side on your own blog would look like I am just trying to be polite but I am very serious in saying: Likewise! Reply to this comment 4 years ago
4 years ago