Today was always going to be a good day on the bike, only the middle section - 35 km along Hway 4 - is something I just wanted to get over and done with.
First things first though. I love the exit from Prachuap Kiri Khan. When you get to that gate of the military compound, staffed with armed personnel, you are certainly tempted to turn right. Don't! Stop and let them know you are on your way to Ao Manao beach: "Bai Hat Ao Manao, khrab/ka". They will point you to the registration book right behind the gate, quickly sign in without being ID´ed and off you roll through the facility. Past their golf course, crossing the airstrip into Ao Manao which looks like any beach resort but is still within the compound. There are plenty of food options but I usually have a joc moo (rice porridge with pork) opposite the PKK Grand Hotel before I ride out of town.
After leaving the soldiers behind it is a most pleasant run down to the big aquarium, where you have to turn right up towards the Phet Kasem. I decided to have a loop around the massive aquarium compound first though, trying to delay that inevitable Autobahn section.
I am probably exaggerating though. In the end it´s not too bad a ride along the highway due to the wide shoulder but obviously still a different world to cycling right along the water. All the same, I was mentally prepared to roll down Hway 4 for 35 km, where I was planning to turn left onto the #1048. Roughly 10 km before I got there I decided to have a drink stop at a P2N petrol station on my left hand side. While sitting outside the convenience store with my soda an elderly gentleman approached me and introduced himself as the owner of the whole complex in excellent English. We chatted away for a while and when I mentioned I was on my way to Ban Krut he suggested I should leave the Phet Kasem a few hundred meters later and ride along the Thap Sakae, Laem Kum and Ban Krut beaches. So I did and it was just magnificent.
The road I turned onto didn´t really show any number but if you search on google maps for "Wat Thung Pradu School" you will get down to the water from the petrol station as I did. The remaining route is obvious and from the new railway bridge at the southern end of Laem Kut Beach there will be signs for Ban Krut. Just make sure you turn left 50 m after that bridge.
To me Ban Krut is one of Thailand´s finest mainland beaches and has always offered the perfect combination of high-end resorts for package tourists and still a variety of old-style bungalow resorts for less demanding visitors like me. Ruenthalay and Proudthai are the ones where I stayed previously; Wandee was my choice this time. Great decision! 400 Baht for a decent fan bungalow with fridge and well equipped terrace - plenty of space between the units for maximum privacy. And the daughter of the owners is extremely welcoming with very good English. Two nights please!
Updating this journal while enjoying the inspiring view from my room at first light.
I wouldn´t ask for it but if I don´t have a choice riding along the Phet Kasem is actually not that bad. 2 1/2 meters of continuous shoulder give you some sort of I-may-survive feeling
Andrea BrownWe took some sort of jungle track in 2015 all the way to the national park, I understand it has completely grown over since then, but it was quite a sandy, back-country adventure. You made the right choice leaving Highway 4 as soon as you could. Reply to this comment 2 years ago
