Day 14: Nakhon Si Thammarat - Thung Song - Frankie goes to.....the Gulf of Thailand (2022)

January 23, 2022

Day 14: Nakhon Si Thammarat - Thung Song

I have done this particular ride along the #4016, 4015 and 4014 many times as it is the most direct and in my opinion most attractive connection between the Gulf of Thailand and my house in Trang. Well it used to be I should say. I always enjoyed it despite the geographical challenges along the 70+ kilometers but things have unfortunately changed. The tendancy of "improving" the infrastructure in favour of fast-fast-faster motorists over us few cyclists became once again very obvious today.

The extensions of the roads come with one single advantage - a wide shoulder. But this gets clearly overshadowed by the clearcut of flora on the side and the increased speed of the vehicles. Already accomplished on the #4015; on its way along the final section down to Thung Song (#4014). I just wonder how cyclists who do this ride for the first time would rate it? Probably still as outstanding. Sometimes "experience" and the related expectations may come to your disadvantage...

Once again the last few unchanged attractive kilometers into Thung Song made me quickly forget about the hardship (yes, that darn wind was still hassling me from the front!) of the day as I really do like my regular hotel (Sino@ThungSong) and the food options in this busy crossroad town. On Sundays in particular as the excellent walking street pops up very close to the hotel. By the way: I still did get one of the spacious ground floor rooms that easily holds your bike as well for less than 12 €.

Talking about the cost for my room. A question I keep asking myself is obviously: Is it better to book through one of the big platforms (ie. agoda, booking.com) or direct with the hotel. My general experience is that in 8 out of 10 cases you get the better deal with the platforms. Like today. I knew where I was going so I checked the room price with agoda and booking.com a couple of times. My additional advice: Always go through your mobile phone and never book on the first request. The price will come down if you keep checking! Anyways, booking.com was better today although they belong to the same group. 428 Baht. When I arrived at the hotel the young and obviously inexperienced receptionist checked me in and then asked for 550 Baht, obviously the normal rate for my room. The 120 Baht difference would buy you three times the dinner I had...

How can this day go possibly wrong? When Chinese coffee shop and Thai joc stall cooperate my best-of-both-worlds breakfast is the result: Rice porridge and "Chinese Tapas" supported by some strong, sweet coffee and a pot of green tea.

New surface without destroying the rural charme of this connecting road (#4016/4015) on the way to Lan Saka.

That´s a Thai campsite. The families or groups of friends usually come for one night only at the weekends and are more interested in the food on offer than the facilities of the site. These pontoon huts have got nothing but a room to sleep and start rocking with any movement. I´d much rather pitch my tent on the "mainland" as the kids do.

One of the many mangosteen (looktan) stalls just before getting into Lan Saka.

While climbing up the range between Lan Saka and Thung Song O2 was more of my problem than O3

Once you have managed that longish, terraced climb you will find this lovely temple / rest area on the top.

And on the bottom of the range on the other side this converted bus (mind your head when you are taller than 160 cm!) will serve you...

....along one of the many attractive creeks in this National Park

....and mountains on the way to Thung Song.

I will try to visualize my complaints about the road extensions, like here along the #4014. Even riding along the many rubber tree plantations can be enjoyable as you still get some shade...

....while just down the road they have started eliminating any plant covering making it visually far less attractive. What annoys me most: No need for it whatsoever! The road was and still is in good condition and more than wide enough for the very limited amount of traffic in this area. Who´s profiting? I guess I know the answer...

I certainly don´t have many complaints about being in Thailand but this is another thing I dislike: It´s a common habit to "show off" - for whatever reason - these poor creatures in front of properties. They are standing in the heat and dust all day long being short-tied to these concrete feeding rings.

My regular hotel, the small but charming Sino@ThungSong. Right opposite the station by the way

Imagine you come to Thung Song for the first time and look for a place to have dinner. Would you pick this one? Understandably not. But you would miss out on one of the best...

... fried egg noddles in soy sauce with chicken (pad si eaow gai) you can possibly get.

Thung Song´s great Sunday Walking Street. It looks more like a driving street which indicates one disadavantage: It´s more or less takeaway only but with the Sino Hotel just round the corner it is still an option for a last snack before you hit the hey....

Today's ride: 73 km (45 miles)
Total: 952 km (591 miles)

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