Day 13: Sichon - Nakhon Si Thammarat - Frankie goes to.....the Gulf of Thailand (2022) - CycleBlaze

January 22, 2022

Day 13: Sichon - Nakhon Si Thammarat

Today's section has always been  another favourite of mine. Not only because it is usually the last ride along the Gulf before I turn inland headed for Trang but the last kilometers before it becomes shrimp-farms-only in case you would continue towards Songkhla. Nothing spectacular as such but the permanent succession of beaches, coconut plantations and fishing villages makes it an absolute joy to ride along.  "Please let this day never end....." is the regular plea. 

At the same time I was asking myself: How can I bring this delight across in the journal though? When you see the third photo of waves rolling onto a sandy beach, the second photo of a yellow bicycle parked in the middle of the road with palmtrees on both sides you will most likely lose interest in scrolling down through the photos. I understand that because I usually feel the same.  On the other hand that´s what today was all about - so get ready for another set of beach, coconut and Patria pics. Try to enjoy it, all over with the Gulf of Thailand tomorrow! 

After my breakfast stop I rolled down to the beach of Sichon with several resorts, mostly at the high end nowadays. I used to stay there but when the price range chenged entirely while the swimming itself remained budget quality, I decided to give the little town itself a try. Like now and I am happy I did. When you see that much of the Gulf while rolling down from Phetchaburi a good nightmarket in the evening is more entertaining and satisfying than watching waves again.

But riding along here is well worth it as I already mentioned above. I only feel somehow sorry for the resort owners who try hard but not one customer in sight although it is weekend. I personally would refrain from staying at most places because there is no restaurant in sight. Thai people are big takeaway fans but I don´t want to end my day with gulping down cold food leaving ten plastic bags behind.

Where I would possibly consider spending a night is just south of Ban Ploi Thon, there were some seriously good looking bungalow resorts, I do remember one name: Jaidee Resort. You will see a photo of this village below with the morning market. That´s probably one reason why I find that whole section between Sichon and Tha Sala so appealing: It´s normal life, most Muslim fishing villages down here.

Mind you saying all that the last 25 km or so were back on the #401 anyway as it does run almost next to the water after Tha Sala. But even then there is a wise shoulder for you plus there are heaps of little businesses (nurseries, orchards, brick burners) always good for a small-talk and a photo.

Nakhon Si Thammarat is a town I would avoid if there were much better options around but with all coming stages it´s simply the best solution. This time I booked myself into the B2 Premier Hotel as it is well located but more important was the special deal of the day on agoda. No recommendation though as the housekeeping could be improved (hair on the floor) and the noise insulation is rather poor. And that becomes a real issue when you have a group of Chinese tourists on the same floor....Never mind, it´s again just for one night and in the end: What can you expect for 10 €? It certainly didn´t spoil the delightful day I had!

Plenty of Thai-Chinese people in this southern part of the country and with it come the Chinese coffee shops that I adore for a first breakfast. The small cup of coffee will always come with a large jug of green tea. The white dumpling is steamed and "savoury". It contains a mixture of very finely grated pork and herbs. The wontons on the right are filled with a pate of shrimp. Love it!
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I spent at least half an hour on this wharf for big wooden fishing boats as the owner was more than happy to show me around
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Looking back at Sichon from the estuary
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Had Sichon
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Beach no. 2. Turn left after the green mosque and the experience will be similar to the section south of Ban Krut
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Beach no. 3, obviously specialising on weddings.
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The Ban Plai Thon morning market
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Beach no. 4: Had Ban Plai Thon
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There are several shrimp farms along here too but they are more family run hatcheries.....
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.....looking after the tiny ones
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Definitely Muslim country down here
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I prefer these sections even over the along-the-ocean ones. Several today, in particular the connecting tracks between Gulf and highway
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On the way to Had Sai Kaeo
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Beach no. 5: Had Sai Kaeo
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Dingle Peninsula in Ireland? No, attractive bungalow resort in the middle of nowhere near Tha Sala
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Futsal is very popular in Thailand. I observed the Saturday afternoon clash in Tha Sala for quite some time
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Back on the - to me - rather entertaining Hway #401 with plenty of businesses to look at, like this bonsai farm or...
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...one of the many brick burners. This one is just firing the oven.
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What I do like about Nakhon Si Thammarat is there is always some good food available, like currently the Chinese Food Festival.
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Yay! It´s mango season and the khao niau ma muang (sticky rice with mango and coconut dressing) stalls are back. My favourite dessert, unfortunately always only as takeaway available
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Today's ride: 82 km (51 miles)
Total: 879 km (546 miles)

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