Day 86: Alor Setar - Butterworth - Frankie goes to.....Indochina

April 27, 2018

Day 86: Alor Setar - Butterworth

Routing: # 1, K130, K1, K161, K177, K172, P1

I have done this section in 2012 and had a very long and tough day then due to rain and headwind. But most annoyingly the ferry at Tanjung Dawai crossing the Merdeka River was not operating due to a bank holiday. So I had no other choice than going back and up through Sungai Petani adding 45 km to a total of 135 km. That sort of distance is simply not feasible for me with my current saddlesoreness and despite the lovely ride through Kuala Perlis and then all along the shore on the K1 I was a bit nervous until I got to the pier in Tanjung Dawai seeing the small ferries waiting for customers. I spoke to the ferryman who said I had two options: Wait until the minimum of 5 passengers have gathered and pay 7 (3 plus 4) Ringgit or "charter" the whole boat for myself and pay 20. No hesitation there - we are talking about 4.50 € saving me at least two hours of rather unpleasant cycling. Plus - what I obviously didn´t know as I missed out 6 years ago - the ride from Pantai Merdeka down south until you get onto Hway 1 a few km north of Butterworth is most delightful.

In the end I felt exhausted without that detour and was happy enough to cool down in my 92 Ringgit room for a couple of hours before I walked down the road to the excellent Bakar Nasi Kandar for an early dinner. Coleen and Chris had the same ideas after a late arrival but felt more like Chinese food. I will certainly sleep well tonight as I can literally feel running out of mental and physical steam the closer I get to the end. Can hardly believe it´s only 10 km to go!

And finally the answer to a question that may arise when you look at the map below: Why have I decided to stay at the Chariton Hotel in Butterworth, just 5 km north of the ferry terminal to Penang, instead of crossing over tonight? Well, it´s just and only an emotional reason. In case the ferry would not have operated again, I would certainly have arrived on Penang late in the evening and very likely not in the mood to fully appreciate passing the finish line after almost 5 months and more than 6300 km. Plus I have been through Butterworth at least 5 or 6 times on my way to or from Penang - why not stay one night and have a closer look?

Hway 1 out of Alor Setar wasn´t bad cycling at all but once south of the urban area it got even better with that motorbike track on the right of the canal

...which provided the same perfect conditions

Fish curries for breakfast. From next week it will be back to toast and vegemite.....

The Yan Pier with the islands in the background...

..where you can go for a daytrip with rental kayaks

The 20 Ringgit included the porter service

Plenty of time won by the ferry service made me a bit more adventurous on the other side of the river

Today's ride: 87 km (54 miles)
Total: 6,353 km (3,945 miles)

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