Day 71: Chumphon - Ban Tong Tom - Frankie goes to.....Indochina

March 29, 2018

Day 71: Chumphon - Ban Tong Tom

Routing: #2018, 41, 2010, 4011

In the end I have to consider myself fortunate to have walked into the right pharmacy getting the appropriate medicine for my condition instead of sticking with my own resources. After two applications I found some decent sleep and this morning the itch was feeling like normal mosquito bites. Still unpleasant but nothing like yesterday. So I decided to continue down the coast with another short ride to Ban Tong Tom.

The Suriwong Hotel is perfectly located for having a quick exit out of town: turn right as you get out of the door, ride straight through over the bridge crossing the Tha Taphap, cross the #327 and then just don´t miss the 90 degree curve to the left, staying on the #2018 . The rest is sheer pleasure cycling. Even the 4 km on the 2-digit highway #41 are rather nice. That stint is over very soon as you turn left onto the #2010 as you see the large Buddha on your right. Some shrimp farms and palm oil plantations along it but nowhere near as monotonous as other places I´ve just been to.

I knew exactly where I was headed for: the Nakoa Rimlay Homestay (on google maps look for Tong Tom Beach which is just round the corner) possibly my most favourite accommodation in Thailand. Run by the incredibly hospitable couple Siriphan and her husband Komar. I stayed with them first in 2012 after one more of my regular navigation errors. Ban Tong Tom is situated at the end of a cul-de-sac and once you leave the #4011 at the temple you may have second thoughts whether you are still right. Well, this time I knew what I was doing and getting there was as scenic as yesterdays ride but today I did actually enjoy it not being distracted by that insane itch anymore.

I had made arrangements with Siriphan to keep a room for me as they only have four available and at the weekend they can be quite busy. It´s not necessarily the ultra-basic rooms with shared bathroom people do come for. It is her fantastic cooking (seafood only!) and the general attraction of their property. You will see what I mean when I do post some more photos over the next few days. I decided to stay four nights as I wish to get entirely rid of the bites and I can´t imagine any place along this coast where I would feel more comfortable.

With so many coconuts around there have to be individuals picking them

I haven´t been to a more idyllic noodle soup restaurant yet

"What makes him stay here for four nights?"

Reason 1: Siriphan and her husband Komar

Reason 2: She cooked this "Welcome-Dinner" for me without being asked. From the top clockwise: Tom Yum Phla (fish broth); fried squid in a tamarind-chili marinade; homemade fishballs in a green curry sauce; deep fried shrimps in a honey glaze that you eat as a whole, heads and tails included. All the blossoms are by the way not decoration only. Siriphan is a very keen gardener and everything she grows on their pier does get served and eaten.

Today's ride: 57 km (35 miles)
Total: 5,357 km (3,327 miles)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	5
Comment on this entry	Comment	4

Bruce LellmanFrank,

You are having way too much fun!
Reply to this comment
6 years ago

Frank RoettgenTo Bruce LellmanI would say: Well deserved after that horrible sandfly encounter, Bruce. I wouldn´t even know what to blame myself for, I guess the beaaches here are simply a no-go during that period of the year. Which is a shame as I love washing the sweat off in the sea after a day in the saddle
Reply to this comment
6 years ago

Bruce LellmanYes, you did deserve a nice break. I can't imagine how awful the sandflies are. We never encountered them but we were never on Thai beaches later than about late February. March must be the season and I will make a note to myself. I hope they are short season fly and that they don't like April.
Reply to this comment
6 years ago

Frank RoettgenTo Bruce LellmanI couldn´t comment on that Bruce. The language barrier here stops me from getting a reliable statement on that. New Zealand has got the same problem on their South Island and once there I will try to get some reliable information whether they are seasonal. It all sounds like a bit too much fuss about it but what I have been through over the last few days is not needed a second time! I´ll have a couple of photo soon on what I believe is good prevention and post-exposure treatment
Reply to this comment
6 years ago