Day 19: That Phanom - Mukdahan - Frankie goes to.....Indochina

January 6, 2018

Day 19: That Phanom - Mukdahan

Routing: #3015, 3003

To stick with my headlines: Good morning - average afternoon. I was
delighted when I consulted google maps last night and saw I could stay on 4-digit side roads all day. It started off very well but the second half was dominated by roadworks and the corresponding dust. The advantage of the stiff breeze which is currently moving in with a trough from the southeast is that it did blow the dust away from me. Therefore I accept it being a headwind at the same time. What else could I tell you about today´s ride? Nothing I could think of. As you see it´s been a rather uneventful ride but this is not meant to be a negative statement.

It was only 2 pm when I got into Mukdahan, where I will have a rest day
and hopefully catch up with my Canadian friend Mark. So I took it easy finding an appropriate accommodation. The riverfront places are quite nice but may be on the noisy side too. When I came to a little market square on my way back from the southern end of town a friendly man who was watering his plants addressed me: "What do you want?" Might be an offensive statement in a country where English is the native language but here it is an offer for help. When I told him I was looking for a hotel he turned round and walked away. I thought that was rude but 30 seconds later he came back on his bicycle, gesturing to follow him. He took me back to the highway, northbound for a few hundred meters, around a u-turn and then into the long driveway of the Baan Chanmuang. He started talking to the receptionist and they quite obviously started an argument. At the end of the longish dispute she turned to me and said: "Bicycle in room is ok!" I tell you I instantly had tears in my eyes. This entirely alien
gentleman leaves all his tasks behind, escorts me to a hotel and organizes - without me having asked for it - that I can take my bike into the room. Obviously it is a ground floor room and that must have been the topic of the lengthy discussion. I am convinced the rooms had all been booked and the lady had to change it all. While I was checking in this wonderful man had disappeared without me noticing it. I am so sad I couldn´t hug him for his generosity..... Now my next priority is to try and organize the meeting with Mark whom I had last met together with Bob over in Khon Kaen in 2012. I hope the bad weather doesn´t spoil our meeting as he has to travel here two hours by motorbike.

The 3015. No shoulder but initially good cycling due to very little, slow traffic

This photo would normally be under the food page but I wish to tell you a little story with it: Yum Phra Mhhgg (squid) is my favourite salad in Thailand but it always comes very, very spicy so I always ask for "paed nit noi", only a little bit spicy. This one came accordingly only with two chilis....

....but although I have been here for more than 4 weeks now I simply couldn´t take it and left about half of the chilis over. While I was still cooling my lips with some ice cubes a Thai couple came in and ordered the same dish. The patron told them about my failure and they all burst out laughing. Then the chef came over to me and told me they would have 8 chilis each in their salad. I told her I would simply not believe that but they happily......

The colourful shrine down at the foot of the 2nd Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge going from Mukdahan to Savannakhet/Laos

The Baan Chanmuang Hotel in Mukdahan......

....and my room and garage for 400 Baht. Fridge and good wifi is always a bonus

Today's ride: 55 km (34 miles)
Total: 1,533 km (952 miles)

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