Bot from the bike shop had recommended to use the rural road 4009 as it runs parallel to the far more busy 201. When I rolled out of town in the morning via the industrious morning market I was almost sad to leave Loei. I really like this town but I gave you the reasons for my departure in yesterday´s post. Just before I turned onto the 4009 I saw that - I can´t really call it restaurant - food shed on my left. I believe I can almost sense nowadays when a place might be worth stopping for. And this place run by two old ladies was just outstanding.
I am less enthusiastic about the start of the 4009 though. Bot had obviously forgotten to tell me it´s under construction. Big time. It´s that pest or cholera choice again. If they hose down the dust you will have the bike covered in gooey red mud; if they don´t spray water, you will definitely need some breathing protection. Fortunately it was all over after 5 km and then I was indeed happy I listened to my favourite mechanic in Loei. Lovely countryside ride it was! Mind you there is no easy cycling up here in the North and Northeast of Thailand. Permanently up and down with many steep if short sections. Very demanding on such a heavy bike. But once again: I packed everything myself, nobody else to blame.
After 27 km you will have to turn left for the last 20 km on Hway 21. As soon as I rolled onto the highway I saw a carwash in action on my left. The solution for the red mud all over my bike! Ra kah tau rei, khrap?- How much is it, please? - Ji sip (20) Baht. And that was for instant and thorough cleaning WITH blowdrying at the end. Just briefly about the rest of the ride: The 201 awaits you with similar challenging first 12 km but the last 8 are once again a very easy finish.
Now - Chiang Khan. I think it is my fourth visit here and I have seen no other place in Thailand having gone from a sleepy fishing village to a buzzing tourist destination in such a short time. Any time I do come here the promenade has been extended with new expensive hotels. Accordingly the first two quotes for a room were on the other side of 1000 Baht. That´s astronomic in Thailand. I still do like the town despite what I just said. Most of the visitors are Thai and there are plenty of good, authentic and inexpensive restaurants.
Back to me finding accommodation: In the end I went back to the Chiang Khan Guesthouse where I stayed twice before. It used to be managed by Ong and Pim but she "ran away" as he told me. Very likely because of his poor to non-existing housekeeping qualities. The place is run down, almost filthy, but at the same time still in a prime location right on the river. And I really do like Ong, he is such a genuinely friendly person. In the end I took things into my own hand and gave room no. 6 a proper cleaning which took me less than 30 minutes. Realistically I should have looked for something "better" but I am predominantly sitting on one of the two 1st floor balconies (either looking over the river or down on the walking street) and that my friends, makes up for any other deficiency! As I said yesterday some bad weather will be moving in tonight so two nights in Chiang Khan for me, please.
Would you have stopped for a meal? 10 years ago I wouldn´t but....
...the two ladies served me one of the best breakfasts I ever had! That´s why the photo of Khao Mun Gai (on the right) and Khai Tiau (the omelette) is here and not on the food site. 50 Baht for both made it even more delicious.....
I am glad I didn´t roll over this little fellow. And that´s not because the bike had just been cleaned! In case nobody else squashed it afterwards - what will it be soon?
And here he is! The almighty Mekong, being the border with Laos on the other side. The river will be the backbone of my route for the next few weeks until I will bid farewell to it at the mouth in Southern Vietnam
