September 23, 2023
Pretty, with hiccups
Nantes to Pornic
And so it begins. We left Nantes at lunchtime after Christoph arrived by train and reached our Pornic hotel at around 8pm after stopping for pancakes at a little portside cafe. Between times we got marginally lost a few times, stopped twice for mechanicals (a bent derailleur cable and a recalcitrant rear rack), and once for a winery. There were also the two hills that Arlene rode with a non rotating rear wheel and my mini meltdown when the ride seemed to stretch into infinity. I cured that one with a rest, a chunk of rum-sugar waffle and half a banana, but I admit I was surprised how hard it felt, even with the occasional electric boost. The problem with Vivian, it seems, is that she has just one electric speed, a little faster than the group, and the second you stop pedalling, on a flatter section, perhaps, she switches herself off. This can be frustrating.
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So now that I'm clean and ready for bed, I must also admit there were many very delicious moments on quiet roads, separated bike lanes and through sleepy French villages. What traffic there was often stopped to let us cross a road, or gave us plenty of room when they passed. France does bikes well.
Other stuff.
The sobering riverside memorial to the abolition of slavery, which was badly lit and clearly built for a non instagram age. (Long, dark gallery beside the water and dismal lighting that blurred the silver lettering, making you worry about your eyes.) Nantes got rich from the slave trade, and is, it seems, trying to atone for that questionable past.
Side note. France abolished slavery in the late 18th century, but Napoleon brought it back. Whoulda thunk that?
The mechanical elephant. I wrote yesterday there was a wildlife theme to come.
Accommodation: La Mauritia Hotel and Spa. It's to the north of town by a shopping mall and a Decathlon, and that was a shame. Pornic is really rather lovely, down by the waterfront. Our 3-bed family room was large, but incredibly poorly lit with wonky electricals. And the big bed sagged badly. Breakfast, which they offered for free after we complained about the room, was excellent. Bike parking in their locked garage.
Today's ride: 60 km (37 miles)
Total: 126 km (78 miles)
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