May 16, 2023
Albi - Cordes-sur-Ciel (Les Cabannes)
Hotel Pastelier has kindly said we can leave our bags here as long as we want and they will keep our bikes in their garage until we want to fetch them.
Before we leave Albi, birthplace of Toulouse-Lautrec, we want to visit the Toulouse-Lautrec collection in the Palais de la Berbie.
"Thanks to a bequest from the parents of Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, the museum houses the largest public collection in the world devoted to the famous Albi painter. The paintings, lithographs, and drawings, along with all the posters ever made by Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, are outstanding illustrations of every facet of his versatile and innovative talent."
It is well spent time. We aren't usually museum goers when bicycle touring, but for me this collection is an experience. The Berbie Palace which houses the paintings is amazing as well.
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We are on the road around noon. We start out with a climb to the Plateau Cordais. The small country roads with few cars are a pleasure, we are high up and have magnificent views to the surrounding countryside, and it doesn't rain! If only it weren't for the wind. A ferocious headwind blasts in our faces the whole way.
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http://www.planetepassion.eu/ORCHIDS-IN-FRANCE/pyramid_orchid_France.html
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We arrive in Cordes and see that the old part of town is situated on a ridge. At the moment we are tired from fighting the wind and are more interested in getting to our lodgings, two kilometers down the road. We call and ask if we could check in earlier than 5:00. Yes, that would be fine. But it was probably a wrong decision not to have a look at Cordes-sur-Ciel first. "Sur ciel" can be roughly translated as in the sky and we didn't feel up to climbing the stairs to get there. Once we get to our hotel, we know we won't be making the effort to go back. Another reason to return.
Our lodging is actually in Les Cabannes which we expected to be little more than a hamlet. It turns out to be a charming village, with many old neglected buildings for sale. Our hotel is a beautifully restored house, owned and run by a Dutch couple. They speak perfect German and in the evening over a glass of wine we learn more about the area. Half of the houses in the village have been bought for next to nothing and then renovated by foreigners like themselves.
Unfortunately, on our evening walk around town I don't have my camera with me. But I plan to get some pictures after breakfast before we leave. The town doesn't have much to offer in the way of food. We planned on visiting the pizzeria, which we discover only has take-away. But there are benches outside and we make do. Still kind of windy for outdoor eating! (Why didn't we take our pizza back to our room? Because we had declined our host's offer of a 37 Euro three-course dinner, having overindulged for several days in a row, and would have felt sheepish and shabby I guess bringing in our pizza in a box.)
Today's ride: 27 km (17 miles)
Total: 506 km (314 miles)
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