Narbonne to Tarascon by train: into Provence

October 31, 2009

Weather: mostly sunny and warm

After a perfunctory breakfast at the hotel, we packed our panniers, loaded up our bikes and rode 1 km to the train station. We didn't have to fold the bikes for this local train, but we did put our panniers into their duffels to make it easier to keep track of everything. We ferried the duffels and unloaded bikes down and up stairs to the correct platform, where we boarded the train. This would be an easy trip—no changes—and we found two seats facing forward right next to the space for our bikes. We enjoyed looking out at the countryside during the two-hour train ride and finally ate the sandwiches from Trebes.

At the small station in Tarascon, we carried our stuff down and up a few sets of staircases to get to the exit, and then walked our bikes the two blocks to Hotel de Provence, which turned out to be a real winner. We would be here for five nights, taking a break from moving on every day or two. Tarascon is a town of about 13,000 located on the east bank of the Rhone river, just in Provence. (Beaucaire, the town opposite Tarascon on the west bank of the river is in the départment of Languedoc-Roussillon.) We chose Tarascon for a longer break because from our reading, it looked like a pleasant small town and there were several interesting day rides at reasonable distances.

In Tarascon we were greeted with this view of the imposing fortress looming over the east bank of the Rhone.

Across on the west bank of the Rhone, in Beaucaire, there was a facing fortress. Detente, perhaps.

Emmanuelle and Stephane, the owners of the hotel, welcomed us warmly and allowed us to park our bikes in their storage area just off the kitchen. The 11-room hotel, built in the 18th century as a residence for a marquis, has quirky staircases and a lovely little library/sitting area. Our room was large, with French doors opening to a shared terrasse, and a newly tiled bathroom with a bathtub! Guests are served breakfast downstairs at a large table in a room filled with antiques.

Relaxing in the reading area of the hotel.

The breakfast room in the Hotel de Provence.

The doorway to the shared patio outside our room.

In the afternoon we explored the centre-ville of Tarascon and found many pedestrian areas, enough restaurants and shops, an impressive chateau to visit another day, and finally a laundromat! Today was Halloween, and there were a few paper decorations on view and the occasional orange-sprinkled cookie in a bakery window. It seemed like a half-hearted effort, and we were told that most French adults view Halloween as an imported holiday, not native to their culture, but their children have been exposed to it in the media.

We ate the menu du jour dinner at Restaurant le Theatre around the corner from the hotel and opposite the old theatre. The entrée was a good frisée salad, then a huge portion of duck for the plat (main course) along with interesting vegetables and Camargue rice. We chatted with the pleasant people sitting next to us, a French couple who spoke excellent English. It turned out that they were also staying at the Hotel de Provence and we looked forward to seeing them at the breakfast table tomorrow.

Today's ride: 1 km (1 miles)
Total: 444 km (276 miles)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	2
Comment on this entry	Comment	0