Lourmarin to Aix-en-Provence: a varied ride

November 12, 2009

Weather: sunny

After breakfast we bid farewell to Rose and Robin and rode our bikes into the village centre where we had seen a bakery, closed yesterday. Today it was open and we picked up some mini-quiches and other snacks for our last day of cycling to Aix-en-Provence. It was completely sunny again and warmer with no frost. We cycled down the D943 and into Cadenet by a different route than the day before. We continued gently downhill and crossed the river Durance on a long bridge, skirted the reservoir Bassin de St. Christophe II, and then rode uphill about 150 metres to Rognes, a picturesque village with a small ruin at the top. Just beyond Rognes, we stopped near a vineyard and enjoyed our quiches in the sunshine looking back at the village.

Our snack spot by the side of the road, looking back at Rognes.

The route continued with a long steady uphill on the D14C (also called the Route de Beaulieu), and we passed a large vineyard and winery complex partway to the top. Unlike most vineyards we had seen, drip irrigation pipes had been installed here to water the vines. We reached the top of the grade in the middle of a pine forest, and then enjoyed a long downhill run into the outskirts of Aix. A series of minor roads with some unexpected hills took us to the edge of the old centre of the city. We crossed a major highway with loads of traffic and walked our bikes a short distance through the narrow streets to the square of the Résistance, with a monument honoring those who had been killed while taking part in the WWII French resistance movement. We sat outside on a café terrace and enjoyed what was called a “healthy lunch” of steamed fish and vegetables. Most of the old city centre is pedestrianized and full of students from several universities—a very nice atmosphere except for a lot of cigarette smoke. Once again, we were glad to be travelling by bicycle. Friends of ours had tried to visit Aix by car, and had circled the city several times without finding a parking space, so had left in frustration and missed seeing the city.

The long steady uphill through vineyards and pine woods after Rognes.

Looking back the way we had come toward the valley of the Durance.

Lots of vineyards along the route this day.

After finishing lunch at about 2:30, we walked our bikes several blocks to find our accommodation, L'épicerie, an old general store converted to a chambre d'hote. Eva had corresponded extensively (en français) with Luc, the owner, and had been told we would not be able to check in until 5:00 pm when he returned from work. A bit inconvenient, but unavoidable, and we had planned to keep our loaded bikes with us while exploring the city. As we passed by the large window of L'épicerie, a woman came out to offer us a business card, advertising the chambre d'hote. When we told her we were already booked in for two nights, she and her husband (Luc's parents) insisted that we come in right away and park our bikes in the hallway. They gave us a key to our upstairs room, and said we could check in later. That was an unexpected bonus! We unpacked and cleaned up and went out to explore, unencumbered by our bikes and luggage. We walked all through the old city and along the famous Cours Mirabeau, a historic street with fountains and wide sidewalks planted with double rows of plane trees. For some reason we did not take a single photo. Unfortunately, dinner in a nearby square was uncharacteristically bad, so no more needs to be said about it.

Today's ride: 36 km (22 miles)
Total: 822 km (510 miles)

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