Les Eyzies: prehistoric art

May 3, 2019

Grottes de Font de Gaume et Combarelles

We got up early and, skipping breakfast because nothing was open yet, dressed warmly and walked the 1.5 km to Font de Gaume. We were there before 8 but we weren't the first, even though the ticket office doesn't open until 9:30. We took our numbered places (5 and 6) on the benches outside and waited. I read my book.

It's 7:54 a.m. The ticket office will open at 9:30.

At 9:30 the wicket opened and everyone stood up. One woman tried to jump the queue but someone else told her she had to go to the back. We came away with tickets (10€ each) for the English tour at 11:15. I was happy because this was one of the sights I really wanted to see and (1) tickets are no longer sold in advance, (2) there are a limited number available each day, from 0 to 78, and (3) today is Friday and it's closed on Saturdays.

Even though businesses were now ostensibly open in this tourist town, a breakfast more substantial than coffee and pastries was hard to find. We had quiche, coffee, and a pain au chocolat each, then it was time to walk back out to the site.

The entrance to Font-de-Gaume is on the right. On the left, behind the gate, is where visitors must leave any and all bags, etc. Even hoods were to be tucked in to protect any contact with the fragile cave walls.

In my opinion, it was worth the effort. No photos from inside because all bags, including purses and cameras, needed to be locked up before entry. If you were wearing something with a hood, the hood needed to be rolled up or tucked in. Nothing must touch the cave walls, and visitors should bear in mind that, of the three prehistoric caves with polychrome paintings found so far, this is the only one it is still possible to visit--for now. I'm glad we did.

We stopped at the Pôle International de la Préhistoire on our way back. Free admission and some interesting displays, mostly in French. Light rain began as we walked back to the village and we snagged the last indoor seats at a small brasserie. Big salads for lunch; they are so good in France!

Le Menestrel, where we stayed in Les Éyzies

We collected our bikes from the B&B since the round trip to Grotte des Combarelles would be 7 km. An easy ride and, unlike Font de Gaume, we could bring our bikes away from the car park and lock them to each other behind the reception building.

The rules for the cave visit were as before, but here the maximum group size is 8, including the guide. Ours was a French tour, but the other visitors were a French couple with 3 children aged 3 to 8 or so. The guide explained things for the kids and also spoke English to us for the important things (don't touch the walls, watch your head).

Entrance to Grotte des Combarelles. This time, there was a locked cupboard inside the gate (on the left). The other entrance is blocked.

The engravings are impressive, very lifelike renderings of large animals including horses, bison, and at least one each mammoth, bear, lion, ibex, reindeer, ox, and a rhinoceros! There were also some human renderings but those were very primitive in comparison.

Most of the engravings were at a comfortable level to view and would have been at a good elevation for a modern adult to work on. However, at the time they were made, they were just above floor level. I think the guide said that the floor was lowered after the cave's discovery to allow exploration and study of the artifacts in relative comfort.

He also said that both grottes, Font de Gaume and Combarelles, were "discovered" during the same week in 1901. Really, it's more that the art within was discovered or its significance was realized since the artists obviously knew about the caves.

For dinner we wandered the main street again, checking out the menus--specifically, the fixed-price "formules". There are plenty, ranging from budget plat-plus-entrée-or-dessert budget options to expensive gourmand options. The mid-price ones are variations on a theme: foie gras in some form as the entrée, confit du canard as the plat, and gateaux aux noix for dessert, with or without other options. It's nice to have local fare, but must they all be the same? There's always pizza, but I prefer to save that idea for when there's nothing else.

In any case, we opted for the standard again tonight and will try again tomorrow for something different!

Very interesting bridge structure. The bridge is skewed (it doesn't cross the river at a right angle) while the bridge piers are aligned with the river flow. The design is more complex than it looks!

Today's ride: 7 km (4 miles)
Total: 186 km (116 miles)

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