Bordeaux to Blaye

May 18, 2019

On my own...

We stayed last night (and the night before we started cycling) at the B&B Hôtel Gare St-Jean. It's a very new hotel (part of a chain), located just a couple of blocks from the new Hall 3 of Gare St-Jean, in the Belcier area of Bordeaux. The price is reasonable and the service superb. Our first place in Bordeaux, Hôtel Particulier, was also excellent, but much harder to book since I think there's only one room! The other advantage of the B&B is that there are wide sidewalks with curb drops in this redeveloped area if you happen to have wheelie luggage.

The disadvantage of this part of town (at present) is the smaller number of places to eat. Of course, you can go through the Gare to the older side and eat at one of the several traditional restaurants there, but on this side there's not much--yet.

Last night we walked to La Distillerie, a very new-looking restaurant. There weren't many diners when we were there, shortly after its 7:30 p.m. opening, but I suspect it's busy later. In any case, my salad and Al's burger were excellent. We walked back by a different route to avoid the hooker block (did I say this is an area under redevelopment?)

My salad was delicious! Those are crunchy pastry pockets containing melted Camembert. Al had a similar salad at the pizza place in Duras so it must be a standard. Next time I'll make better note of the name!

Speaking of redevelopment, it's all part of the gigantic Bordeaux Euratlantique development, as far as I can tell. The Piste Roger Lapébie has a little diversion around a construction site and I saw a rendering of that part of the project which made me do a little research this morning. Take a look at this: https://www.bordeaux-euratlantique.fr/projet/pont-simone-veil/

While I waited for Al to pack his bike, I walked over to the big new convenience store near the station and picked up two travel essentials. The Grampies mention their favourite bonk-avoiding snacks and these cookies are one of mine when in France. I also needed more laundry soap; one of these lasts me about 3 weeks. I wish we could buy it at home.

We hung out in our room almost until check-out time. Although we'd really enjoyed Cité du Vin on our first stop here, neither of us like this city. I helped Al maneuver the cases the couple of blocks to the Gare since he was taking my bike case, stuffed with his panniers, etc., back to Paris along with his packed bike. We said our goodbye and I returned to the hotel to collect my bike and escape Bordeaux.

It was much easier than I'd feared. I had used software to create a route and loaded it on my Garmin and it turned out to be on a bike route all the way to the ferry terminal at Lamarque. The route was separated from traffic through the urban areas and then on reasonably quiet (and often bumpy!) roads.

I followed these signs to the ferry terminal at Lamarque.

Leaving? I didn't know I'd entered the only village in this area whose name I knew before researching this trip.

I suspect these vines produce very nice wine!

I didn't expect windmills! This one is just as the bike route enters Lamarque.

Vines belonging to the same château as the windmill.

I arrived at the ferry terminal far earlier than the required 30 minutes, for which there seemed to be no reason. I chatted for a while with a couple from Brittany who were returning home from their first trip with their new camping-car (I think). For most of the wait, we were the only ones in line and the ferry was far from full when it left a bit later than the scheduled 1730.

I spent a few minutes in the Office de Tourisme at the ferry terminal, looking for and then asking about a map of Blaye. No, they didn't have any information about the opposite side of the river, despite the fact that most visitors are here waiting to take the ferry there. French OTs are very insular!

I've never been on a side-loading car ferry before. The sign says it's forbidden to stay in your vehicle during the voyage.

My lonely bike at the other end. The cars are parked facing the other ramp, on the same side as the one they'd boarded by.

The ferry ramp at Port de Lamarque is unlike any in BC.

The Citadelle at Blaye. The nearby parking lot is full of camping-cars.

The Camping Municipal in Blaye is in the old Citadelle. Yes, in a historic site! There is also a hotel (rather expensive) and a sign indicates there are some gites too.

Yes, that's the way to the camping municipal, if you're on a bike.

The campground is well-established, with dense hedges between the sites. The sanitary facilities don't seem to have been updated since they were built. The block contains a few odd-looking shower stalls, 3 toilet stalls (bring-your-own-TP and two are à la turque), two sinks for hand-washing (cold water only), and in a section that might be a bit newer, half a dozen each big laundry sinks and dish-washing sinks. But then, what can you expect for 6.20€?

Although there are at least two restaurants in the Citadelle, I walked into the small town for dinner. A very good salad with shrimp and scallops, washed down with a small pichet of white wine and followed by tarte Tatin. Early to bed, as usual.

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Today's ride: 54 km (34 miles)
Total: 925 km (574 miles)

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Robert ZachariasEvery time I take a ferry somewhere other than here I appreciate BC Ferries
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5 years ago

Jacquie GaudetTo Robert ZachariasThe ferry and service were fine and the fare was around 3€ for a 30 minute crossing.
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5 years ago