Torreira to Porto

October 23, 2021

The ride today was flat and easy. We passed beautiful beaches, dunes, inland waterway, pine forests and many cyclists especially close to the town of Murtosa, which the Euro Vélo calls the biking capital of Portugal.

The town of Espinho greeted us with much Saturday morning activity on the beachfront. Surfers catching waves, fishers pulling in their nets, women selling fish and birds looking for an easy meal. The main part of town had a wide board walk where we set up our usual picnic lunch watching the scene unfold in the warm sunshine. It was so enjoyable we moved over to the gelateria for desert and coffee. Leaving town we continued too long on the boardwalk missing the turn off to the Eurovelo, so instead we cycled the raised wooden walkways over protected dunes for 5km which gave panoramic views over the beaches and dunes. We are not sure if cyclists are allowed on this, but with so few people, we had no problem and did meet one other cyclist.

Getting closer to Porto the bike trail is exceptional -painted red, beside a walking path for pedestrians- and a joy to ride, open to the coast dotted with beautiful beaches and lined with beach houses, apartments and cafes on the inland side. Finally, we rounded the last point of land into the mouth of the Douro River. After cycling under the autoroute far above on the Arribida Bridge, we came to the historic city of Porto as it rises up the steep banks of the river. What a magnificent sight! We were on the Vila Nova de Gaia side of the river and it was teeming with people out on a Saturday afternoon, walking, sitting at tables on patios, boating and cycling. This was by far the busiest city scene we have experienced so far. Lots of Portuguese, but also lots of tourists judging by the many different languages being spoken.

We joined the crowds along the quay, walking our bikes mesmerized by the sights, sounds and smells. A young man, originally from Holland, offered to take our picture. He said that this time last year the quay was empty because of Covid. Now with Covid cases low in Portugal and restrictions lifted a week ago, the city is alive again.

We crossed the Luis I pedestrian bridge in the party atmosphere, but the rêverie quickly ended as we had one stop before getting into our apartment/hotel for the next three nights. To get the entry codes, we had to pay, but the online payment system connected to our bank needed to send a verification code to our Canadian phone number, which is not active. We tried to change the banking info to put in our European phone number, but it would not accept the format. So we had to go to their office, which was on the other side of town and a 20 minute, intense, inner-city ride with no bike lanes and watching the GPS to not miss a turn. The apartment is in a "transition" part of town, meaning that lots of buildings are abandoned or very run down. Our building looked a bit sketchy from the outside, but opened into a grand staircase and the apartment itself is bright with 12 ft ceilings and everything brand new. A lovely pied à terre in Porto.

Last look at Torreira Beach before heading off.

Cycling the inland waterway first thing in the morning.

The ice cream store would not be allowed to have this name any more in Canada.

Wooden walkways bring you over the protected dunes to the beach.

Colourful tiled churches in coastal villages.

Capela do Senhor d'à Pedre, an oceanfront chapel built on the rocks.

Madalena Beach coming into Lavdores, the land area just before heading into the mouth of the Duoro River and Porto.

Fabulous bikeways heading towards Porto.

Busy Gaia Quay with gondola that goes up to the Jardim dol Morro Park.

Sandeman a port producer at the Gaia Quay.

View from the lower level of the Luis I pedestrian bridge.

Today's ride: 69 km (43 miles)
Total: 1,971 km (1,224 miles)

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Brent IrvineIf you have the time, the gallery of the Sao Bento train station is beautiful. I think there is a spectacular library in the city that I have yet to see (I return in April).
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3 years ago

Brent IrvineTo Brent IrvineLivraria Lello.
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3 years ago

Maria PschornHi Ann and Steve,
Just finished reading all your blog entries of the last month.
What an adventure you are having there! I love reading your blogs. Great writing and wonderful pictures!
And so happy for you that everything is working out so well!
You must feel so elated and alive, being exposed to so much beauty (even though you sometimes have to work hard for it).
Maria
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3 years ago

ann and steve maher-wearyHi Maria
Thanks for dropping your note about the blog. Yes we are having so much fun. Everything is working out well, there have been a few challenges but when other things work out, it just makes enjoying them that much sweeter on the trip.
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3 years ago

ann and steve maher-wearyTo Brent IrvineYes we have been to the beautiful train station. We went to the bookstore and the line up went down the street. Next time! Thanks for reading our blog and commenting.
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3 years ago

ann and steve maher-wearyWill have to read up on your past adventures in Portugal!
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3 years ago