October 4, 2021
San Sebastien to Zarautz
Our camping gear safely in a DHL truck and with lighter panniers, at 11:30am we set off, gliding along San Sebastien's gorgeous waterfront around the corniche. Already hungry, we picnicked in the warm sunshine on a bench taking the scene in one last time -San Sebastien's surfers, sunbathers, swimmers and strollers as we vowed to come back to this beautiful city for an extended stay.
No longer following the straightforward Eurovelo 1, we had plotted a route on the backside of Igueldo, the mountain range just inland from the coast. We started on bike paths through the city and then,suddenly turned onto a small road climbing steadily upwards. It was instantaneously quiet. The trees shaded the narrow road as it rose. It was so steep that we had to get off and push the bikes. We were surprised as in climbing up the Jaizkibel we rode the entire way, and now we have 15kg (34 pounds) less luggage.
At last, the road levelled off and we were surrounded by farm land and spectacular views. Down a short drop and immediately we started climbing again. We saw a billy goat that foreshadowed what was to come. Off the bikes again, we pushed, past horses and chestnut trees. For energy, we picked an apple from an overhanging tree, and then a fresh fig, delicious. Thinking we must be off route, Steve kept checking the GPS, but it said we were on track. Then the road (if you can call it that) ended. Oops we had missed a turn on the last steep descent. The missed turn had us scrambling (ie. like a goat) on a muddy walking trail straight up hill. Some parts took two of us to push each loaded bike. Finally, we came out to a trellised vineyard, loaded with ripe grapes wafting the sweetest smell as we rode beneath them. We were at the top of a mountain with views west to distant hills, valleys and the Oriole Itsasadarra (narrow inlet) far below. Through the vineyard it was a bumpy ride before we hit pavement and coasted down to the water and on to an official bike trail that ran into and out of the town of Orio. We ignored The GPS suggested route over the top of the next range and opted for a fast 7 km with traffic on the N-634 into Zarautz where we checked into our hotel. Clean sheets and an elevator - we could get used to this!
A note to future tourers -try another route to Orio unless you are up for a billy goat adventure.
The weather is perfect today but tomorrow it is going to rain. Steve was keen for an ocean swim, so off we went. Another exceptional beach with rolling waves, surfers, soft yellow sand and fishing boats heading out to sea. After the swim we picked up food for a beach picnic watching the sunset. Another fab day!
Today's ride: 27 km (17 miles)
Total: 1,213 km (753 miles)
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3 years ago
Omgosh, this route is exceptional. We thought it was going to be great but it has far exceeded our expectations. We are working on the last two days' blogs - every day is spectacular! Thank for your fabulous blog which was one of the reasons we chose this route. We are following your travels this fall, inspiring as always for future trips. You seemed to have missed the avalanche of rain in Northern Italy?
3 years ago
3 years ago