November 3, 2021
Obidos to Sintra
We woke to brilliant blue sky and sunshine, on the top of a hill, within the walls of Obidos castle! So after a great breakfast we explored more of the town, did a bit of shopping (as we are close to Lisbon and won’t have to carry it too far now on the bikes) and took a few more pictures before the eight minute ride downhill to catch the 11:30 train to Sintra. Somehow we missed a turn, saw some beautiful casas to stay in if we come again, but still pulled into the station with time to spare before the train arrived.
Bicycles are permitted on a local train but we had to take off the panniers and lift everything up three steps into the train. Luckily the other passenger at the station helped us and the conductor made sure we were all aboard before signalling to start moving. After some discussion (hand signals and pointing at schedules on phones) with the conductor we realized that this train went to Sintra Meleca, but the popular touristy Sintra was was on a different line that required two more train changes for the last eight kms. We decided to cycle instead, piece of cake right?
We picked up some food for a picnic and then cycled on bumpy roads through the apartments and strip malls of Sintra Meleca, navigating some of the worst traffic we’ve seen on the trip. Finally we were out of the city and found a quiet bench for lunch and contemplated the next steep uphill.
Looking up from our bench we could see the famous Pena Castle way, way up on the hill. Steve promised that we would ride nowhere near that high. Well, we came close but Steve was true to his word and at the last minute we skirted the mountain and coasted on smooth pavement past beautiful country houses of the rich and into Sintra proper. Sintra was built as a getaway spot for Lisbon's aristocracy and there obviously was some keeping with, or trying to outdo, the neighbours in building opulent villas into the hillsides.
After checking into our hotel we went out for a walk to Sintra’s beautiful city hall and National Palace and remarked on the many tourists out and about. Being close to Lisbon, Sintra is somewhat sophisticated so, on the way home, when we passed a fancy restaurant with a nouveau cuisine menu we got excited at the thought of a change from the past weeks’ fare of "typical Portuguese" grilled fish or meat and potatoes. After showering and putting on our best, almost clean clothes, we marched in and were shocked to learn they were full, but would we like to make a reservation for tomorrow? We had grown accustomed to almost empty restaurants and never dreamed we needed to make a reservation. Fortunately there was a typical "taberna" nearby where we enjoyed what was definitely one of the best grilled fish dinners of the trip!
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Today's ride: 10 km (6 miles)
Total: 2,266 km (1,407 miles)
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