October 8, 2021
Mundaka to Bakio
Pulling out of the hotel we were drawn by the morning sun bright on the mist just over the Mundaka sea wall. The tide was high and, despite the chilly 11C temperature, surfers were already out there, presumably making the most of the waves that seemed particularly large and powerful.
It has become almost a routine for us to warm up with a steep climb out of town, ride for an hour or two and stop for coffee. Today we stopped in Bermeo, a busy industrial and port town, and sat at a simple workers’ cafe in the full sun watching the bustle around the docks.
We keep saying that this has to be the best cycling ever -as long as you like hills. The route to Gaztelugatxe was another morning of steep up and downs, through forests and out to headlands with breathtaking vistas along the coast far below. And, with almost no traffic. Yesterday Ann counted 10 cars in an hour.
Gaztelugatxe is probably the most famous place on this coast and we were treated to great views as we approached. We were excited to visit this 10th C monastery on a craggy islet that can only be accessed by a stone walkway. With our fingers crossed, we locked the bikes to a fence by the busy parking lot and started on the 1km path. Surprisingly, the ticket booth was closed with only a small sign saying Gratis. The hill down was very steep but solid on the recently remade walkway. As we rounded the last bend, the clues fit together at the solid fence blocking access for construction of the last section of walkway to the sea. Ah, just another reason to come back to this fabulous part of the world.
Hungry, we found a lovely restaurant in Baiko and over lunch decided to stay the weekend here to enjoy our last beach before heading inland for the next two weeks.
Baiko is a beach resort town looking very off-season with dozens of apartment buildings along the waterfront mostly shuttered closed. We assumed it would be easy to get a nice apartment hotel, but Airbnb and the usual sites all showed nothing available until Monday. Strange. The local tourist office was closed and looked closed for the winter. Eventually, by changing our search to Friday only we found a decent, reasonable hotel on the inland edge of town.
Steve wanted to swim but by the time we got back to the beach, a stiff breeze was blowing so we joined the regulars at the sheltered end where we sat in the still-warm sun and stared out, mesmerized by the waves.
At 6:30 we found a grocery store and ate light salads on the hotel balcony. There was only one other room occupied but the website still shows no availability for tomorrow but we will ask at the cafe reception in the morning.
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Today's ride: 23 km (14 miles)
Total: 1,357 km (843 miles)
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