Luso to Torreira

October 22, 2021

Waking up in our castle and looking down the mountain where the sun was starting to burn off the morning mist, we were excited to get to the coast. In fact, Ann was sure it was an ocean mist!

First we indulged in a plentiful array of breakfast buffet items, followed by eggs served at an elegant table with fine China and crystal goblets. Leaving was bittersweet as we knew this was the last of the back-woodsy, countryside and the coast would be more developed, built up and expensive. Indeed, after 10km of fast downhill along winding roads, the ride levelled out, the villages were bigger and more prosperous as were the farms, and there was more traffic. We saw greenhouses growing flowers, fields of raised arbours growing kiwis and plenty of newly built or renovated haciendas among the traditional tiled houses and crumbling old farms.

Just outside of Aviero, as the traffic was getting unpleasant, Ride with GPS brought us to the red-painted bike lanes which we followed into the port. The ferry takes a long lunch break, so we had to wait an hour in a windswept parking lot for the 4:30 sailing, which got us across in just 15 minutes. It was still lovely and sunny, but we were cold from sitting in the ocean wind and so headed straight into a nearby cafe to stock up on much needed calories in the form of delicious pastries and cafe con leite.

The last 12km was on the road, which we didn't like; but right beside the inland waterway with brightly coloured fishing boats pulled up on little sandy beaches, and birds feeding on marshlands all in the glow of a coastal evening, which we did like.

The beach at Torreira is stunning, but the town is quite deserted in October. We were chilled right through so after a sunset photo, we found our hotel, warmed up with hot showers and walked across the street to a nice looking fish restaurant. There were only a few other diners when we arrived, but as we ate, the place became much livelier with the arrival of two groups of extended families with young children through to grandparents out for a Friday dinner. And we thought the town was deserted.

All smiles leaving the castle with full bellies.

Modern kiwi vines on the right. Traditional Orange trees on the left.

Tiled facades are still popular in this part of Portugal

This one seems mostly for the practicality of never having to paint.

This one needs fixing up but the tiles still look good as new.

We saw a few of these wells that are now unused, but still have the gearing for hooking up an animal to draw the water.

Our ferry boat to across the Aveira Lagoon.

Today's ride: 70 km (43 miles)
Total: 1,902 km (1,181 miles)

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